Biarritz Blitz!
For those accustomed to the romance of riding waves with a Hawaiian sunset, Biarritz offers alternative surfside seduction.
(All photos courtesy Hôtel du Palais.)
For Hawai‘i locals looking to swap lava rock for limestone cliffs, Biarritz — perched on the French Atlantic coast — delivers a seaside escape where waves roll beneath real palace walls, and sunsets are served with a side of Champagne. Biarritz, France simultaneously touts imperial charm and a surf culture with a certain je ne sais quoi that likens the aloha spirit.
For those accustomed to the romance of riding waves with a Hawaiian sunset, Biarritz offers alternative surfside seduction. Centuries-old villas cling to Atlantic cliffs dotted along this Basque country coastal gem that was once the summer haven, or White Lotus of sorts, for empresses and emperors.
This late-imperial seaside retreat was the choice getaway for Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie, whose legacy lives on at Hôtel du Palais — a regal, five-star sanctuary that feels more like a private château than a hotel. And naturally, it would; it was constructed as Empress Eugénie’s été oasis and is a literal former palace, showcasing sea-sprayed terrasses and endless surf.
Quiet, barefoot, and silk-lined luxury await on one of Europe’s chicest shorelines. Whether you’re craving elegant escapism or a touch of coastal sophistication, French flair dating all the way back to the Napoleonic period meets the sea in Biarritz.
STAY
As gilded tides and Belle Époque façades characterize Biarritz, make Hôtel du Palais your royal “basecamp” of sorts along the Basque shoreline. This iconic palace offers Hawai‘i-based travelers a comfortable contrast between the Atlantic and the Pacific.
Vincent Poulingue, Director of Hôtel du Palais — who brings a gamut of luxury industry abodes, including French Polynesia — says Biarritz’s quality of life is probably one of the best in Europe, nodding to the fact that it was recently hailed the best city to live in France.
Just a short, one-hour flight or four-hour train journey from Paris, Biarritz garners most of its surf-seeking visitors at the end of March and beginning of April. August is the peak season, and “Indian summer is a reality here,” Poulingue shares. “We usually have nice temperatures; the weather is good, and the waves are amazing.” September and October are great times to visit, with the lowest crowds rolling in from November through February.
The hotel environs are very inspirational, making Hôtel du Palais a destination in and of itself. Between 2018 to 2022, the hotel underwent a full renovation, reopening in 2022 with a glow up that perfectly marries the modern and old worlds.
Back in the 1850s, when Napoleon was constructing his wife’s summer retreat, it was three stories, and everything was built up around the 70-acre palace property, including farms. When the Emperor left, the lands were sold, and the city of Biarritz continued to develop until the first and second world wars.
Known as the Saint-Tropez of the time period, Hôtel du Palais is the only remaining luxury hotel from the époque, making it an emblematic “lighthouse” in the city today. Even though the hotel is equipped with all the modern amenities of the 21st century, it still keeps its Napoleonic authenticity. Furniture and décor are inspired by the time, with some furniture and chandeliers still in use from the original castle. Taking all the property’s Boulle Empiric-style pieces into account, Hôtel du Palais opened Surf, style and gastronomic savoir-faire unite at Hôtel du Palais... an in-house atelier with artisans specialized in historical furniture.
Earning an exclusive Palace de France title for its iconic Second Empire charm, it is the only palace on the Atlantic coast to merit that standing.
“You’re literally in a palace,” Poulingue states, “Visiting is an experience in itself ... It’s a great mix of a historical experience and a 21st century way of living.” (i.e., countless onsite amenities, direct ocean access, a laid-back atmosphere, and creativity, in terms of food and beverage.)
Visit this five-star “The Unbound Collection” by Hyatt destination, and you’ll be in good company. It is a favorite for celebrities who seek a peaceful retreat where they can blend in with regular clientele. Edward VII, Empress Sissi of Austria, Frank Sinatra, Winston Churchill, and more recently, Daft Punk and Sofia Coppola, comprise their esteemed guest registry, alongside actors, politicians, journalists and athletes.
(All photos courtesy Hôtel du Palais.)
SAVOR
Surf, style and gastronomic savoir-faire unite at Hôtel du Palais with its fully oceanfront dining portfolio. “Our main culinary offerings are based on French art de vivre,” shares Poulingue, adding that menus are seasonal, but one thing remains: oceanfront views from all dining venues.
“We have a lot of local producers ... our sustainable development policy makes us very conscious, and we try to secure suppliers within 40 kilometers surrounding the property ... Everything is fresh, made on site.” Seafood is easy to come by, from the ocean or the nearby rivers and lakes.
Luxurious and offering Michelin-star experience, La Rotonde offers quintessential haute cuisine with 180-degree panoramic views of the ocean. Smash burgers on the terrace and sushi in the lounge provide international travelers some comforts from home, alongside local cuisine.
“During the high season, French brasserie-style food is served on the terrace which is still very, very nice,” Poulingue says. “On the weekends, we have brunch, and then in the summer, we switch to weekend Garden Parties and outdoor buffets.”
Le Sunset is a tried-and-true poolside, oceanside option with stunning views of the Bay of Biarritz. The newest entrant to the culinary repertoire is Eugénie Lounge, where Meilleur Ouvrier de France Barman, Jérémy Lauilhé, crafts special house cocktails alongside pairings: wine and sushi and saké and sushi. Very exclusive, the lounge, affixed to the spa, only seats 20 and solely operates four nights a week.
Shishi-Iwa- House by Shigeru Ban, Karuizawa, Japan. Ryue Nishizawa.
SPA
Spa Impérial is the pinnacle of the palace’s historical link with Guerlain. In fact, the creator of Guerlin was the official perfumer of the Emperor. Eau de Guerlain was even created for Empress, and that’s the reason the bee is the symbol. Hotel perfume and amenities are all Guerlain, and a custom line is offered in the spa, including two exclusive treatments (one goes by the name Soleil du Palais).
The spa is quite unique: almost 27,000 square feet of facilities covering different levels: a large swimming pool on the ground floor with an indoor pool, jacuzzi and saunas. One floor up, find retail and beauty shops and the hair salon. Up next? Eight swanky massage rooms. And on the last floor, a fitness center and state-of-the-art reformer Pilates studio.
To boost their health and fitness offerings, Hôtel du Palais is offering wellness yoga and Pilates retreats, partnering with Natasha Andrews to launch the first retreat in September 2025.
If you want to widen the loop and explore beyond Biarritz, a full European itinerary would include landing in Paris, taking the train from Paris to Bordeaux, and then spending two days in Bordeaux, before taking a two-hour train ride to Biarritz. Once arrived, you can take a train 30 minutes later to Saint Sebastien and Bilbao. From Bordeaux to Bilbao, you have four hours between the two cities where you can stop and make a loop — but that’s another story.
A beacon for the blue wonders of Basque country, this coastal city merits a visit.
(All photos courtesy Hôtel du Palais.)
SURF
This coastal gem beyond the Riviera offers a different type of surfing paradise for those who call the Hawaiian Islands home. Poulingue says Biarritz is where surfing was born in Europe, making it a pinnacle stop for surfing ambassadors from the U.S., especially in the 1960s.
Poulingue shares that, as legend has it, back in the ’60s, there was a movie being shot in Biarritz, and an American from California brought his surfboard on set, after hearing from a friend that the Atlantic coast boasted great waves ... that may be surfable.
Surfing didn’t exist in Europe at the time, but there he was, out on the waves every day — much to the shock and awe of locals. Legend has it that he left his board behind — and that’s how surfing started in Biarritz. The whole region is now reputed for its waves and laid-back surf culture.
“The area is very rich, in terms of activities,” Poulingue shares, adding that there is much more to do than surf. The Biarritz opera, ballet and numerous restaurants are just some of the highlights, in addition to local festivals, typically lasting from March to November.
Not only can you surf the shores, but June is also popular for silver screen surfing, via the Biarritz Film Festival — New Waves (Nouvelle Vague), with producers, actors and filmmakers for the next generation.
If you want to come during the holiday season, there are Christmas markets, whimsical decorations, festive concerts, and the hotel is lavishly decked out for the occasion. “Winter can be very cozy with a nice Christmas ambiance.”