Tactile Elegance

New fabrics led Loewe’s spring/summer with new creative directors McCollough and Hernandez.

Elements of texture such as leather, fringe, and feathers found presence on the runway this season, giving visual intrigue. Designers gravitated to a more maximalist look, layering tactile fabrics alongside print and firmly putting the joy back into personal style. These standout garments defined a season where texture and movement were key.

For designers, texture showcases the craftsmanship of the atelier — the meticulous work that goes into each piece — giving credence to why these garments command such elevated prices, something which has resonantly been heavily debated. No one has been showcasing this better than Bottega Veneta, whose very name translates to ‘Venetian workshop,’ a house synonymous with intrecciato, the brand’s signature woven leather.

Louise Trotter’s debut collection was a lesson in artistry, most notably the red, blue and orange sweaters that looked like fur but were incredibly made of recycled fiberglass. The same innovative fabric created some spectacular ombré skirts whose movement commanded attention as they came down the runway and was matched by the crowd’s notable excitement. It was a collection which blended tactile textures while maintaining a refined elegance.

Between the shiny, smooth leathers and floral embroidery, fringe was used abundantly across the showings. One of the most innovative ideas came from Alaïa. Juxtaposed with sleek cotton tunics, tension was created with the use of thigh-high stockings from which long fringe cascaded from the top. You had to look closely to see where the dress ended and the embellishment began. Some of the final looks included asymmetrical green-hued skirts trimmed in oversized haberdashery-style tassels. It was a tantalizing collection.

An abundance of leather on the spring/summer runway was unexpected. Loewe, a label founded on its leather expertise, showcased many creative leather pieces, from polished, heat-sealed, bell-shaped jackets to jeans. The new creative directors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez — the duo behind Proenza Schouler — leaned into the house’s well-honed leather skills but also broadened the brand’s ability to create garments made from other innovative fabrics. The collection had minimal additional styling, which helped keep things looking sleek.

These tactile fabrics were a masterclass in what luxury fashion should stand for. Blending different textures into your style builds character into a look and depth into your aesthetic, with dramatic results.

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs.

See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.