Masters of the House

From Dries Van Noten (left) to Dior (right), SS 2026 favored versatile vests, boho influences, and layers.

Fashion has just gone through a seismic shift. A new era has begun, with more than a dozen new creative director appointments at top luxury brands, many showcasing their new vision for the Spring/Summer 2026 season. Interestingly, many of these new appointments are not new talent but established designers with solid credentials — a good move for an industry currently experiencing instability.

But there is one area that has been bucking trends: menswear. Forging steady growth, sales of menswear are predicted to grow to over $900 billion by 2030. Once overshadowed by womenswear, that’s a significant shift in men’s interest in what they wear. It’s a rediscovery of the joy of dressing up, fueled by post-pandemic boredom and dialed-up menswear offerings embraced by male celebrities.

Coming into focus for spring, menswear trends that took shape were the versatile vest, boho influences, multiple layers and even ties, which made a significant return in unusual ways. In this unprecedented season, all eyes were on the most highly anticipated menswear debut — the must-see show from Jonathan Anderson for Dior, who now oversees all collections for the house, the first designer to do so since Christian Dior himself. Anderson brought his glamorous high-low aesthetic to the brand, with shorts a popular story.

Another designer to give shorts runway space was the much-anticipated premiere collection from Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten, who managed to blend his own vision with that of the brand’s namesake predecessor. Jockey-inspired shorts came in multiple variations, but it was color-drenched, fluid striped suits that won the crowd.

If you’re looking for the “it” shoe of the season, Hawai‘i’s most humble footwear — the slipper — found itself in the spotlight. Forgo the rubber and embrace more sophisticated leather versions seen across the board at brands such as Prada, Hermès and Louis Vuitton. Affordable versions can be found at local brand Island Slippers.

Looking forward, Grace Wales Bonner’s first collection for Hermès menswear will be one to watch. However, within the menswear sphere, there’s much to be excited about as men continue to step out of their comfort zones, think creatively, and own their individual style.

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs.

See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.