Coming Up Roses

At David Koma (above) and Simone Rocha, reinterpretations of roses — stems adorning black satin, sheer tulle and more — graced the runway. 

Photos courtesy brands 

Lately, the idea of female power in fashion has skewed more masculine, but over the last few seasons, a shift has been quietly taking shape. Think of Valentino’s Pink collection from Fall 2022/23 or the charming Balletcore with bows, ribbons, and rosettes filtering into designers’ aesthetics. I imagine this spring’s collections forming as designers listened to the sound of the Miley Cyrus hit, “Flowers,” playing in the background, linking florals with female freedom. Spring flowers, while not groundbreaking, have — as is usual in fashion — found ways to grow with one bloom being the pick of the bunch: the timeless rose.

As awards season began, the theme obviously resonated with celebrities as a variety of bouquet-styled gowns filtered onto the red carpet. Standing out amongst the crop was Margot Robbie in Balmain’s skin-tight, off-the-shoulder, sultry red gown with a neckline of large rosettes while Emma Stone shimmered in a plunging nude-colored gown with pastel rose appliqué by Louis Vuitton. There was a definite return-to-classic-glamour dressing with everything coming up rosy. 

David Koma created a plethora of rose renditions that found their way onto black satin jackets, long skirts, and even white knee-high boots. Hand-drawn roses were printed onto transparent mesh sometimes in shades of neon green and yellow. My favorite was the ornamental rose accessories wrapped around arms and seemingly hanging from necks like long necklaces. 

For some in conceptual fashion, only the real thing will do. Simone Rocha, who showed at the English School of Ballet Headquarters, placed long, pink-stemmed roses between sheer panels of fabric. Her best rendition: a corseted, ethereal pale dress with pink roses suspended between layers of tulle — the stems seemingly creating the corset’s boning. Ingenious, but in all seriousness, how do I keep these frocks fresh while hanging in my wardrobe? Overall, as an English gal, what can I say but blooming marvelous! 

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.