Big Moves

Alessandro Vigilante is now creative director at Rochas (above) while Daniel Lee now serves as CCO at Burberry (left).

Photos courtesy brands 

Over the past year, fashion’s biggest hitters have been making significant moves, reshaping an industry which must evolve to remain relevant. Some of these current changes are driven in part by the luxury slowdown following the post-pandemic consumer spending spree with brands and their owners looking to place themselves in the best position to weather the storm.

Kering, owner of Gucci, began the first of many upheavals within the company with the sudden exit of Creative Director Alessandro Michele. For Gucci, it was the end of a visionary, eight-year partnership which saw huge commercial success. But as sales flattened, Kering sought the next chapter, placing 13-year Valentino alumni Sabato De Sarno at Gucci’s helm.

It certainly feels like fashion creatives have been on a merry go round recently. Pharrell Williams’ appointment at Louis Vuitton was certainly a surprise, as he has no formal fashion training, yet undeniable talent and plenty of social leverage. Daniel Lee parted ways with Bottega Veneta and was appointed as Riccardo Tisci’s replacement as Chief Creative Officer at Burberry. Alessandro Vigilante is the new designer at Rochas. Matthew Williams exited Givenchy. Tod’s appointed Matteo Tamburini as Creative Director and Phoebe Philo released her debut collection in two highly anticipated parts.

The changes kept on coming, but for me, one of the most surprising was that of Sarah Burton leaving Alexander McQueen. Since her mentor Lee’s death in 2010, she has successfully steered the brand, preserving Lee’s quintessential precision tailoring and strong, edgy design whilst honing a more feminine sensibility. Sarah’s final flourish was spectacular, with Naomi Campbell closing out the show in a stunning ensemble consisting of a silver beaded strapless corset and draped skirt.

By the time this issue is released, the names of these newly appointed creatives will begin to roll off the tongue, and their vision for fashion’s future will be coming into focus. I cannot wait to see what unfolds.

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.