The Riches Red

According to Viernes, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Cabernet stands out, as does Chateau’s Rayas’ Grenache. However he counts Sucette Grenache as a “diamond in the rough.” Photo courtesy Lefteris Kallergis

You know that feeling of sleeping in your own bed after traveling a long way? The right bottle of wine can elicit those same feelings. So it comes as no surprise that our palates might be gravitating towards richer, heavier and more robust wines right now. We look to them not only to fortify us, but to help enhance a heartier celebration of life, dearer to us than ever. Some varietals do the job better than others.

Take, for example, Grenache, which easily warms the soul. The grape can attain high ripeness levels, translating to higher alcohols, but it’s always bolstered with tons of red and black fruit, framed by hints of spices, and rich and velvety tannins. French examples from Châteauneuf-du-Pape add a sense of place, with notes of heated stones and savory spices. They pair well with slow-cooked game and meats, casseroles and stews, as well as virtually anything grilled. My favorite producers each bring something unique to the table: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has a heart of stone bursting with opulent fruit; Chateau Rayas offers elegance and purity from their signature sandy soils; Château de Beaucastel is meatier and denser, regal and long lived. New World’s stars include Manfred Krankl and John Alban, whose cult wines rarely see the light of day. But my diamond in the rough is Sucette Grenache, made by Carla and Richard Betts from an ancient vine (over 100 years old) in Barossa Valley, outside Adelaide. Its floral and effusive fruit lead to a rich, almost fleshy texture, with a long and satisfying finish.

Syrah can be just as satisfying. It has a natural depth and richness, not only in color but flavor. Black and blue fruit sing from the glass, tannins coat the mouth and flavors of meat, minerals and herbs add complexities and express the terroir from which it is born. It is sensational with game and meats, both grilled and slow-cooked; charcuterie and olive tapenades. This is classically grown in Northern Rhône valley, in appellations such as Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Cornas, where legendary families like Chave, Chapoutier, Guigal and Clape have been winegrowing for generations, their wines the world’s standard of great Syrah. Still, Australia’s Shiraz deserves special attention; Penfolds Grange and Henschke ‘Hill of Grace’ can be eternally glorious. But my Syrah find is from Walla Walla, Washington State. At Gramercy Cellars, Greg Harrington has proven the area can produce world-class Syrah. Their 2016 ‘Lagniappe’ Red Willow Vineyard is every bit as intense and bold as any from the new world.

And, of course, there’s the noble Cabernet. It’s the little black dress, the perfect pair of jeans and the fresh bread from the oven, all in one. Tomes have been written about the great Châteaux of Bordeaux, and for good reason; their Classified Growths make any occasion special. California Cabernets can vie for best-in-class, as well, as the likes of Harlan Estate, Colgin, Dalla Valle and Araujo are an easy choice for luxury. But among the region’s blue-chip producers (think: Joseph Phelps, Shafer, Opus One), the illustrious Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars stands out. The Cask 23, Fay Vineyard and SLV are crème de la crème. Even the Artemis Cabernet is an impressive, forceful, velvety and delicious example of Napa Valley Cabernet. Any of these are sure to deliver the familiarity, satisfaction and warmth that you desire.

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