Savoring the Smoke
Remember when there was a smoking section on the airplane? Smoking was still allowed in restaurants. Those were the days when the Court of Master Sommeliers took cigars and cigar service seriously. Even though it is no longer part of the curriculum, cigars are still part of the good life.
Cigars have always represented the luxury of time. Wherever people light up, it is an investment in time: time to relax, unwind, catch up with friends, play a round of golf, watch the game, fish, share a bottle of your favorite spirit. Unlike a meal or meeting, no one rushes to finish a cigar, especially the good ones.
They are also treated with the same fanaticism as wine or spirits. The plethora of producers from around the globe, from Cuba to the Philippines, the different sizes, types of tobacco, fermentation techniques, length of aging and blending all have significant impacts on the flavor of each “stick.” There is no coincidence that the same publisher for the Wine Spectator Magazine also publishes Cigar Aficionado. Speak to any cigar aficionado, and you will quickly find out that there is a different cigar for each occasion, as well as their favorite tipple to go with each of those cigars, just like a food and wine pairing.
I remember some famous cigar smokers telling me about their favorite pairings. I am unable to share their names, but coffee is a common favorite which I can see, as many cigars have a torrefied character that would link nicely with coffee. One said his favorite was Coca-Cola. The spritz of it helped to refresh his palate, and the bitter sweetness of the drink plays a good foil with the creaminess of many cigars. I very rarely hear of a favorite pairing with wine. And I agree, in my experience wine actually does not pair well with cigars — unless it is a fortified wine.
With all due respect to Pete Johnson of Tatuaje Cigars, who loves cigars paired with Cabernet Franc, to me, non-fortified wines are not intense or flavorful enough to withstand the aromatic intensity or the ‘smoke’ of a cigar. They get overwhelmed by the flavors of a cigar. However, fortified wines with the extra added alcohol have an extra bit of intensity and strength — perfect for bolstering its flavor.
My favorite fortified wine with cigars is Madeira. Madeira is so rich and complex already; they are like indestructible wines that can live forever. Boal, Malmsey and Malvazia are all sweet styles of Madeira that are perfect with cigars. They have flavors of caramel, coffee, toffee, marzipan, dates, raisins, cream, nuts, and more, all in copious amounts and hugely intense. Marvin Chang of R. Field Wine Company agrees: “I had a Cuban Romeo y Julieta Churchill with a 1999 Barbeito Boal Madeira in Japan last year that was memorable!” I remember a Thanksgiving where I shared a bottle of 1964 Blandy’s Bual Madeira with family and friends and lit up a Cuban Partagas Series D No. 4. It was a magical experience.
Sherry is another fortified wine that is a favorite pairing. Mike Sato of Tamura’s Fine Wines recently recommended Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado with a Sobremesa Brûlée. Amontillado Sherry has a similar nuttiness to Madeira and is dry but can also add a hint of saltiness and chalkiness which sounds funky, but together with the cigar make a unique and delicious combination.
The other fortified wine that I enjoy most with cigars is Port. Jason Fukeda of Fujioka’s Wine Times recommends a 20-year Tawny with Tatuaje Cigars. I love tawny ports as well, but the real treat is to have a well matured vintage port. I can still remember having 1963 Quinta do Noval Nacional at the end of a seven-course wine dinner together with a Cuban Montecristo No. 2 and thinking that was the pairing of the night. The Port is legendary, perhaps one of the greatest of the century, and it lived up to the hype.
Yes, spirits can go well with cigars, too. Cognac, Armagnac, Whiskey, Scotch and Rum all have their place, but for me, they tend to be too strong in alcohol, especially when you have something already elevating the temperature of your palate like a cigar. Fortified wines are in that “Goldilocks” zone with just enough of everything to make my palate very happy. And that’s not blowing smoke up your skirt.