Cult Following

I was having wine with a friend who told me about an exclusive wine group he belonged to called The Cult Cabernet Club, or “CCC” for short. I admittedly don’t drink much Cabernet, but my friend — who has a very discerning palate and an impressive international cellar — said, “I once brought a bottle of 1982 Petrus, and they didn’t even drink it!”

How could a group of wine lovers not drink a bottle of 1982 Petrus — were they mad?! This was one of the great bottles not only in Bordeaux but in the entire wine universe, and they didn’t even open it? I know some wine fanatics, but this is another level. My mission was clear: I needed to attend one of these séance-like tastings with the CCC myself.

So I asked another friend who belongs to the CCC if I might be able to join one day. His response: “Only if a member does not show up.” That could mean a month — or a couple of years. Fortunately, I only waited three months before an opportunity opened up when one member was traveling. This group is serious about both their wines and the people they invite.

The CCC has its own criteria for what constitutes a “Cult Cabernet.” There are only about 20 Napa Valley producers they consider worthy of the designation. I won’t list them all here, but you can imagine: Abreu, Fairest Creature, Colgin, BOND, Harlan Estate, Bryant Family, Hundred Acre, Scarecrow, Schrader and Screaming Eagle all make the cut. The wines must retail for more than $450 per bottle and aren’t readily available through local distribution channels — mailing list only.

When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to see many familiar faces — wine lovers I’ve shared bottles with over the years — all wearing matching CCC aloha shirts. Most were retired or nearing it, and all were fun-loving and jovial. The camaraderie was palpable, filled with easy banter and good-natured teasing. And when it came to the wines, the pours were generous, each bottle was given its moment, and everyone was invited to share their thoughts.

The lineup that night was epic by any measure — I definitely came on the right night. We started with a vibrant 2015 Louis Roederer Cristal, a perfect palate cleanser before diving into a deep river of dark Cabernets. The 2022 Harlan Estate showed classic graphite notes—approachable, though with a slight hint of green on the finish. The 2022 Scarecrow was even more accessible, with a refined elegance befitting one of Napa’s finest.

One member brought a wine served blind, which turned out to be the 2023 M. Etain — once considered Scarecrow’s second label, now its own Bordeaux-style blend made by the same team. Slightly jammy and dark-fruited, it may have been the most open of the younger wines. I liked it very much.

One gentleman announced his retirement and, in celebration, brought a bottle of 2018 Screaming Eagle — I told you I came on the right night. It showed beautifully, still youthful but already expressive. I’m often asked whether Screaming Eagle is all hype, and my answer is no — it truly is one of Napa Valley’s best, period (if you have the means and access).

The 2018 Dalla Valle “Maya” followed, offering a more savory, floral profile with a generous portion of Cabernet Franc. The 2008 Capella, unfortunately, wasn’t showing its best that evening.

Then came a trio of Colgins — yes, three. The 2008 Tychson Hill still carried noticeable oak and the warmth of its 15.2% alcohol—rich and unapologetic. The 2003 Tychson Hill, by contrast, was more restrained, showing beautifully integrated red and black fruit at perfect ripeness. The 2022 Red IX Estate was another powerhouse, with heady ripeness and a long finish of sweet oak and alcohol. What a lineup.

As serious as they are about their Cult Cabs, this group is equally serious about having fun. The night carried on with generous pours of rich Cabernet. One member joked to the retiree, “You’re a young man retiring at 67!” Another, already retired, chimed in, “So what is a 72-year-old retiree supposed to do?” A third answered simply: “DIG!”

I hope to be invited back one day to share in this group’s generosity and reverie...