The K Connection
When considering a visit to South Korea, all eyes are often on Seoul. As the home to nearly half the country’s population — as well as the world’s fourth-largest metropolitan economy after Tokyo, New York City and Los Angeles — Seoul is a powerhouse destination like few other global cities. But there’s more to discover on the Korean peninsula than just what can be found in its capital city. From the natural beauty in Busan to South Korea’s fashion center of Daegu to the historically significant Geoju, there’s plenty to explore outside Seoul. Here’s a quick guide to the slightly less prominent but equally awe-inspiring attractions of Korea.
Odds are, if you’re traveling to South Korea, you’re arriving at Incheon International Airport, the largest airport in the country (and one of the busiest in the world). Once upon a time, Incheon was a quiet fishing village by the sea. During the Korean War, this is where U.S. Marines landed in 1950; after the fighting, Incheon became Korea’s first free-enterprise zone and never looked back. Today’s Incheon is a bustling center of industry that combines a rich cultural heritage with remarkable sights and scenic landscapes.
There’s no better way to take in the sights than outdoors; explore rose gardens, a sculpture park, and a children’s zoo in Incheon Grand Park, a 700-plus acre park that offers sledding during wintertime and cherry blossoms during the spring. Or enjoy a walk along the cozy white sand at Eurwangni Beach, which boasts clear water perfect for swimming and snorkeling (though there are also jet skis and banana boats available if you’re feeling adventurous). Add some color to your Instagram feed by taking photos at Songwol-dong Fairy Tale Village, a rainbow-colored neighborhood where the walls are adorned with epic street art inspired by classic fairy tales from around the world, such as Pinocchio, Alice in Wonderland and Snow White. For a bite to eat, head to Sinpo International Market, a popular port for Korean locals and foreign traders since the late 1800s. There are more than a hundred stores specializing in everything from spices to vegetables to Korean street food, including dakgangjeong, sweet and spicy crispy fried chicken; tteokbokki, savory long rice cakes in a spicy sauce; and fried mandu dumplings.
For a change of pace, travel from the northwest to the southeast coast of South Korea to the port city of Busan. With close to a dozen pristine beaches and some of the freshest seafood in the country, Busan is sometimes considered the Miami of South Korea. Luxury travelers stay at the five-star Park Hyatt Busan or Paradise Hotel Busan, where rooms offer sweeping views of hip downtown Haeundae or the nearly mile-long Haeundae Beach. Treat yourself at the hotel’s ocean spa or visit Spa Land in the upscale shopping hub Centum City, which offers 13 unique saunas, including natural springs. Come for the sauna but stay for the shopping: Centum City is also home to a Shinsegae department store that’s the world’s largest, measuring in at more than 3.1 million square feet. (In comparison, all of Ala Moana Center is only 2.4 million square feet.) No visit to Busan is complete without a trip to the Gamcheon Culture Village, a kaleidoscopically colored urban area that resembles a cross between Santorini and Machu Picchu. More than a decade ago, this former slum was revitalized into an art haven with many homes in this labyrinth-like town converted into museums, art galleries and shops.
For more beauty by the bay, travel further down the coast to Yeosu, a picturesque city that spans more than 300 islands. Perhaps best known for hosting the 2012 World’s Fair, Yeosu offers modern elegance imbued with small-town charm and romantic vibes — particularly at night, when glowing city lights along the marinas cast their reflections across the water. Go hiking in the morning to stunning seaside temples, such as Hyangiram Hermitage, whose bright red and patina green structures have a powerful ethereal quality. At sunset, go on a cable car ride to Dolsan Park for breathtaking views of the bay. Stay until it gets dark to catch a dazzling light show when Dolsan Bridge lights up in a rainbow of neon colors, then enjoy coffee or cocktails in one of the area’s nearby hole-in-the-wall cafes or bars.
Not to be outdone, the city of Daegu has transformed itself in recent decades to become a sophisticated destination with a thriving high-tech industry and high fashion scene. See for yourself at Dongseong-ro, a playground of trendy shopping centers, department stores, and boutiques, located downtown. (If you’re interested in more reasonably priced apparel or jewelry, a better bet is to visit one of the 4,000 shops in nearby Seomun Market.) The biggest attractions in Daegu are organized by street and that includes the food scene. Enjoy muchihoe, or seasoned raw fish, at restaurants along Bangogae alley; stir-fried beef tripe (gobchang), a Daegu specialty, at one of more than 50 tripe restaurants in Anjirang alley; or deep-fried chicken gizzards at (you guessed it) chicken gizzard’s alley at Pyeonghwa Market. For a slightly more elegant culinary experience, start at Bongsan Jjim-Galbi restaurant on jjim-galbi (slow-cooked beef ribs) street, where chef Esther Choi prepares Korean braised short ribs inspired by her grandmother’s recipe. For more than 40 years, this restaurant has been serving home-style Korean cuisine in simple yet stylish surroundings.
In early 2020, South Korea opened its largest glass dome botanical garden in the “Blue City” of Geoje, an island off the country’s southern coast. Inside this nearly 50,000-square-foot greenhouse, visitors can explore thousands of different tropical plants, some reaching close to 60 feet tall, as well as waterfalls, a skywalk and observatory. Incredibly, this egg-shaped dome isn’t even the most impressive structure in Geoje. That distinction would belong to Maemiseong, or Maemi Castle, a cliffside fortress built by a single man, Peak Soon Sam, in response to typhoon Maemi that struck Korea in 2003. After witnessing the devastation wreaked by the typhoon, Sam — who had zero prior architecture or building experience — decided to construct a castle by hand, brick by brick, to protect his homeland against future disasters. Maemiseong is a testament to his resolve. Like the rest of Korea, it’s well worth a visit.