Old Faithful's New Faithful
An anonymous quote has long inspired wanderlust with this simple logic: “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.”
The global pandemic radically altered this mindset, however, as those sequestered within COVID confines were forced to table bucket list journeys to far-flung destinations. In a quest to regain normalcy, bubbled travel enthusiasts road tripped en masse to rediscover fresh air, sunlight and gorgeous scenery in our own backyards.
Defining “America the Beautiful,” U.S. National Parks continue to shine as magnets overflowing with geological phenomena that merge into glorious U.S. landscapes. Maintaining its stature among the most revered is Yellowstone.
National Park Trailblazer
It’s daunting to wrap your mind around the dynamic DNA of our country’s first national park established by President Ulysses S. Grant in 1872. Straddling Wyoming, Montana and Idaho at a whopping 3,472 square miles, this premier wilderness area is a mere 600 square miles smaller than the Big Island of Hawai‘i.
Perched atop a dormant super volcano, the 2.2-million-acre natural canvas sizes up with 10,000-plus hydrothermal features, nearly 300 waterfalls and more than half of the world’s geysers–all earning it the nickname of “Wonderland.”
Wildlife also runs amok, with eagles, grizzlies, cougars, wolves, elk and the largest public bison herd in the United States visible from nearly 1,000 miles of hiking trails and park roadways.
The bulk of this massive spread is anchored within Wyoming, where an authentic “Old West” attitude still walks the walk. “Outdoor recreation has become even more popular over the past year, with people looking for naturally social-distanced activities,” says Diane Shober, executive director of Wyoming Office of Tourism. “With our wide-open spaces, Wyoming is an ideal destination.”
Remarkable Routes
National park planners raised the bar when mapping out Yellowstone’s 142-mile figure-eight Grand Loop Road. Five entrance hubs each link to stunning geographic marvels.
The 96-mile Lower Loop reveals the bulk of this sanctuary’s most renowned sites, including Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Lake and Old Faithful. Beyond roadside lookouts, ample boardwalks and hiking trails up the immersive ante for viewing these and other wondrous attractions.
“Yellowstone has something for everyone,” says park ranger Linda Veress. “Whether you delight in the challenge of a strenuous hike or prefer to sit quietly and watch a sunset, the park offers a great diversity of activities that include fishing, watching wildlife and exploring the many thermal basins.”
Those with flexible agendas can devote up to a week and merely discover a smidgeon of the splendor. While summer draws the largest crowds, Yellowstone is equally breathtaking when wrapped in a stunning blanket of white. Engaging with a quieter, tranquil tone, winter spins recreation to skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling.
Grand Entrances
Regardless of the approach, visitors can quickly plug into Mother Nature’s nirvana. Southwestern Montana’s West Entrance serves as a springboard to what endures as one of our nation’s most recognized National Park symbols.
Perfectly reflecting its moniker, Old Faithful shoots 3,700- plus gallons of steam skyward to an average height of 130 feet up to 20 times daily. The dynamic display lasts from 90 seconds to 5 minutes.
The pioneer of legendary “parkitecture,” historic Old Faithful Inn serves as a hot spot to wait for the next burst while enjoying a Mountain Mint Chocolate Tea.
Tucked between Upper and Lower Geyser Basins, Midway Geyser Basin doubles the jaw-dropping pleasure with a pair of Yellowstone’s most dramatic geothermal features. Star attraction Grand Prismatic Springs dazzles with a vibrant kaleidoscope of orange, gold, green and blue fringing the edges of the largest hot spring in the U.S. A mellow 0.6-mile route from Fairy Falls Trailhead delivers a bird’s eye view of magnificent hues of this unworldly crater.
As gateway to the ever-changing rock formations of Mammoth Hot Springs, the year-round North Entrance from Gardiner, Montana, ducks beneath triumphal Roosevelt Arch to hit the multi-colored Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. To soak in the scenery, hikers gravitate to Lookout Point on the north rim and Artist’s Point on the south.
The Northwest Entrance from Billings, Montana, fast tracks to Lamar Valley that’s known as ground zero for a wildlife frenzy, while the East Entrance 60 miles from Cody, Wyoming, unfolds to the park’s 7,732-foot elevation namesake lake with a backdrop where eagles soar in the big sky above.
Diehards craving to up the adventure often opt for Wyoming’s upscale Jackson Hole Ski Valley. A gorgeous 60-mile route travels north along the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway to Yellowstone’s South Entrance and Lower Loop via Grand Teton National Park. This second access to Old Faithful also links to the West Thumb Geyser Basin on the shore of Yellowstone Lake.
“Roughing It” In Style
Reflecting their magnificent surroundings, Yellowstone’s nine high-demand in-park lodges are part of the Xanterra Travel Collection. While all are open during the summer, legendary Old Faithful Snow Lodge & Cabins and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins sport winter welcome mats as well.
Beyond borders, VRBO and Airbnb options range from a low-impact Nordic tipi on a 35-acre organic permaculture farm and fireplace-warmed cabins near babbling rivers to well- heeled guest ranches where saddling up spurs city slickers to tap into their inner wrangler.
Trending as the “it” option, glamping (glamor camping) embellishes great outdoors stays with coveted creature comforts. Just beyond Yellowstone’s West Entrance, Under Canvas Yellowstone (undercanvas.com/camps/ Yellowstone) welcomes happy glampers to hang their hats in stand-alone safari-style tents.
Cowboy chic décor enhances such ensuite perks as wood-burning stoves, private deck with lounge chairs, bath with shower, lounge area and “Stargazer” viewing window above a plush king bed.
Immersive culinary experiences within the canvassed community include noshing on pan-roasted trout and locally sourced ingredients from nearby purveyors. Complimentary camp programming adds to the mix with sunrise yoga, scavenger hunts, guided hikes and fireside chats.
Within exclusive Moonlight Basin in Big Sky, Montana, Collective Retreats Yellowstone (CollectiveRetreats.com/ retreat/collective-yellowstone) balances a backcountry attitude with modern ensuite amenities. Farm-to-table fare fuels guests for horseback riding, white water rafting, fly-fishing, ziplining, hiking and in-tent massage treatments.
In Jackson Hole, the boutique Moose Creek Ranch (moosecreekranch.com) tunes into intimate seclusion with retro Airstream glamping at the base of the Teton Pass. Perks include WiFi, a personal grill and firepit next only feet from a flowing stream.
As COVID-19 restrictions are lifted, U.S. National Parks will continue to preserve some of our country’s most beautiful assets that confirm why so many consider nature as the best medicine for the soul.