Artists' Paradise
Who could have foreseen that a Frog and Cat would spark the conception of a world-class art island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea? Naoshima Island, one of over 7,000 islands in Japan, spans a modest three miles long and one mile wide with a population of 3,000. Yet, thanks to the vision of Tetsuhiko Fukutake and his dream of building an educational and cultural center for children, it now hosts one of the world’s most breathtaking art collections.
It all began in 1989 with the opening of Naoshima International Camp, a destination for visitors to immerse themselves in the island’s natural beauty. Upon arrival, guests were greeted by Karel Appel’s Frog and Cat, not a neighborhood pet, but a whimsical large sculpture of a frog on its back balancing a cat like in a circus performance. This was the very first permanent art installation on Naoshima Island. This playful piece set the stage for what would grow into a cultural hub featuring four museums, six galleries and an extraordinary hotel spread across four distinct locations.
THE JOURNEY TO NAOSHIMA
Reaching Naoshima requires dedication: planes, trains, automobiles, and a ferry ride to the final port. Yet every mile of the journey is worth it. Visitors are welcomed by Yayoi Kusama’s Red Pumpkin, a massive polka-dotted sculpture with circular cutouts that invites exploration. This iconic artwork sets the tone for the immersive experience ahead.
WHERE ART MEETS HOSPITALITY
The Benesse House “Park,” the island’s largest accommodation, offers guests a chance to stay in a Tadao Ando-designed wooden gem. Nestled on a hillside overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, the “Park” combines serene views with artistic elegance. Here, installations blend seamlessly with the environment, and guests can enjoy amenities such as the main Terrace restaurant, shops, and the Park Hall, which accommodates up to 120 guests.
Other accommodations include the “Museum,” where you can sleep mere feet from works by Jean-Michel Basquiat and Cy Twombly; the “Beach,” a family-friendly location near sandy shores of the Inland Sea; and the exclusive “Oval,” perched atop a hill and accessible only by private monorail. With its six bespoke guestrooms featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that frame majestic views of the property, site-specific art installations created by renowned artists, and the pièce de resistance — a massive oval skylight courtyard with a reflecting pond below, “where the sky and earth converge in perfect harmony.” The oval is a masterpiece in itself.
ART IN HARMONY WITH NATURE
At the heart of Naoshima’s artistic philosophy is the coexistence of nature, art and architecture. The Benesse House Museum, opened in 1992, embodies
this spirit. Artists were encouraged to create site-specific works that seamlessly integrate with their surroundings, resulting in installations both inside and outside the museum. Highlights include Hiroshi Sugimoto’s evocative photographs, displayed on the museum’s concrete exterior walls and exposed to the ever-changing elements of sun, rain, wind and fog. Equally captivating are Yoshihiro Suda’s Weeds, delicate wooden sculptures nestled discreetly within the seams of the concrete structure, challenging visitors to uncover beauty in unexpected places.
The Chichu Art Museum was constructed in 2004 by Tadao Ando. A living sculpture itself “rethinking the relationship between nature and people,” this subterranean museum was designed mostly underground so not to disturb its natural surroundings. Perfectly curated by featuring artists Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter De Maria for their subjects of inspiration, medium and form.
An experience not to be missed is the immersive viewing of Claude Monet’s Water Lilies series. Upon entering the gallery, visitors are required to remove their shoes and don tabis, adding a sense of reverence and intimacy to the experience. The floor, composed of over 700,000 hand-placed Bianco Carrara marble tiles, subtly shifts beneath each step, creating a tactile connection to the space. The gallery itself feels misty and dreamlike, perfectly complementing Monet’s ethereal depictions of his beloved pond subjects.
However, there is something distinctly different about this presentation. As you gaze at each painting, it slowly dawns on you: there are no artificial lights in the room. The curved walls and dropped ceiling ingeniously cascade natural light down onto the works, eliminating sharp edges and creating a soft, enveloping glow. This innovative design by Tadao Ando and design team ensures that the paintings are seen in a way that evolves with the time of day, weather, and season, making each viewing truly unique.
Atmosphere, light and space continue to inspire through James Turrell’s mesmerizing installations at the Chichu Art Museum, with “Open Field” standing out as an unforgettable highlight. The experience rivals the magic of Houdini, Copperfield or Siegfried and Roy — an awe-inspiring display of pure illusion and wonder. Not to be outdone, Tadao Ando delivers his own masterstroke with a colossal cantilevered concrete wall in the museum’s interior courtyard. This feat of architectural ingenuity appears to defy gravity, leaving visitors marveling at its seamless integration into the subterranean design.
FAREWELL TO NAOSHIMA
The island boasts even more artistic treasures at the Lee Ufan Museum, Ando Museum, Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery, Miyanoura Gallery 6, Naoshima Bath and the Art House Project. Simply strolling through the island’s serene paths, you’re bound to encounter world-class art installations in unexpected places. As your visit comes to an end, take a short walk to the concrete pier on the Inland Sea, where Yayoi Kusama’s iconic Yellow Pumpkin awaits. With its bold black polka dots against a vibrant yellow backdrop, this signature piece captures the whimsy and creativity of Naoshima. A place that asks you to pause and truly see and feel when art, nature, and human imagination intersect to create an everlasting experience one not soon forgotten.
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