Infinite Feast
Waikiki is often regarded as the flourishing nucleus of Hawai‘i’s visitor industry, with its inviting golden beaches, idyllic oceanfront location and bustling atmosphere. Hidden within the rhythmic rolling waves and sea breezes is a luxurious oasis — ESPACIO the Jewel of Waikiki. Driving along Kalakaua Avenue, just past the Duke Kahanamoku statue, if you blink... you’ll miss the corridor taking you to the multi-suite resort.
Nestled within the nine full-floor luxe suites is an intimate, Forbes Five-Star and AAA 5 Diamond, fine-dining restaurant named Mugen (moog-en). Mugen composes elevated global cuisine paying homage to French and Japanese techniques with Hawaiian, local and internationally sourced ingredients, The new talented, refreshed team of chefs and culinary artisans, strive to paint a sophisticated dining experience with exquisitely plated dishes, harmonious flavors and skillfully designed menus highlighting premier ingredients from around the world.
“I am really focusing on the craft and bringing in ingredients that I only dreamed about,” Executive Chef Colin Sato explains. “We have the best caviar, Golden Osetra, at all times, we have two different types of A5 Wagyu, Miyazaki and we have Toriyama. We have a special dry ager that we have some impeccable tomahawks aging in.”
Mugen first welcomed guests in the fall of 2019. In January 2024, the restaurant gleefully reopened boasting new management, a new culinary team and a brand-new executive chef. A Hawai‘i native, Chef Colin Sato remarks that this was something he had always hoped for and an opportunity he welcomed with open arms. “I came from very high volume at the bigger hotels — for dinner we would do 200 covers and afternoon tea we would do more than 300, breakfast we would see over 500 guests. Going through that much volume and then coming to a small restaurant like this... I really had to adjust but it also gave me a lot of freedom to do the kind of food that I always dreamed of,” Sato says.
With a mere 10 tables and a maximum dining room capacity of just 34 guests, Mugen, which means “infinity” in Japanese, aims to provide infinite options and memorable opportunities for diners. Their hope is that this setting offers something uniquely personal and a meticulously luxurious experience for all guests who make their way to the bar or restaurant.
Chef Sato and his team implemented various types of seasonal prix fixe tasting menus with the goal of trying to appeal to any palate. They opted to craft a 5-Course Dinner Menu, Grand Tasting 6-Course Menu and a Prime Tomahawk for Two Dinner. The team also recently launched breakfast service, Champagne & Caviar at sunset on the pristine pool deck and Saturday Afternoon Tea.
Amongst the tasting menus guests have multiple selections when choosing what they would like for their second to fifth courses, also providing myriad of options for the diner to personalize their experience. Chef believes giving the guests multiple options will also lend itself to leaving the door open for them to return and try new dishes, even if they have already enjoyed this menu, there would be other variations of the menu to try.
“The five-course is an approachable smaller menu (they can choose what they’d like with each course), we understand that maybe not everyone wants a 6-course and then the Tomahawk Dinner is the best of both options,” he adds.
For my dining experience, we were invited to try the Grand Tasting 6-course. The starter was an impeccable mosaic Poke & Caviar combination. The fresh ahi, hamachi, ikura and osetra caviar elegantly sat atop a rice cracker with robust ginger and avocado making this a bright, bursting, fresh few bites to wake the palate. The first course of the grand tasting oscillates between three small bites and this one amuse bouche. The Poke & Caviar was so enjoyable, I could see this becoming Chef Sato’s signature dish.
For the second course on this degustation journey, we had a choice of Golden Beets, Wagyu Tartare, Kona Kampachi and Day Boat Scallop. The joy in having to choose one dish for each course is bringing a guest with you to allow for tasting other dishes as well. I opted for the Kampachi which was a stunning representation of what looked like a sculptured rose of pink, red and orange flowers. Gently floating in a nuoc cham Vietnamese-inspired sauce atop fresh buttery avocado, this sustainable Kampachi was tender, slightly sweet and extremely fresh.
My partner ordered the Wagyu Beef Tartare which was skillfully plated and beautifully presented. The beef was robust with umami, egg yolk gel gave it a creamy texture while maintaining the beef tartare freshness and consistency of silky velvet. All the dishes so far danced on our palates and embodied a flavorful journey with exceptionally stunning presentations.
The third course offered two choices, a Golden Eye Snapper or Lobster Risotto, as you can imagine we ordered one of each. The Golden Eye Snapper features Japanese Kinmedai flown in from Japan twice a week, while the Lobster was also flown in from Maine.
The lobster was outstanding and perfectly cooked, the risotto was also pristinely prepared and immediately boasts Hon Shimeji mushroom, earthy smokey salty flavors. The snapper was delicate, had a crisp skin, was cooked perfectly and accompanied by sugar snap peas and an ‘Ewa corn velute.
That evening’s fourth course offered Toriyama Wagyu from Japan, Cascade Creek lamb, and Maui venison. The wagyu was impeccably tender, sweet, nutty, melty and, as wagyu always does, remains the star of the plate. The venison was delightfully memorable for its Moromi miso crust and ume port gastrique, which gave it savory crunchy textures and a slightly uplifting sweet finish. These components really elevated and accentuated the lean yet tender local meat. Part of me will always remember this venison for its lovely crust and ume highlights... it sang like it was from the holidays and opened my eyes to a new preparation of venison.
Desserts were delightful and artfully plated. Each dish was uniquely beautiful and reminded me of a cross between Monet and Van Gogh paintings. Each visually aesthetic and offering a sweet tropical or chocolate ending. The finale of the courses is a petite cheese plate composed of local honey and goat cheese from Sweet Land Farm.
“All chefs want a small venue that they can go wild and execute their big ideas... It is a dream come true to be able to do the cuisine I’ve wanted to do for a while.”
Upon entering the restaurant on the second floor, there is a dark cellar-like atmosphere projecting a combination of old-world charm and contemporary enhancements including Moroccan light fixtures and Carrara marble. While the dining room does not offer any views or windows, despite its beachfront location, the composition of the dishes and the impeccable plating artistry makeup for the lack of ambience. The service is attentive, hospitable and approachable, while it is a small venue the team’s goal is to make each guest feel a warm welcome.
Mugen, 2452 Kalakaua Ave.,
(808) 377-2246, mugenwaikiki.com