From Napa to Wai Kai

Whether dining at a restaurant or enjoying a home-cooked meal, everyone knows that the real magic happens through the kitchen doors. And this sentiment couldn’t be truer for the aptly named Kitchen Door at Wai Kai.

The idea was born out of chef Todd Humphries desire to serve his kitchen staff a family-style meal after every shift at the now-closed Michelin-starred Martini House in Napa.

“He’d cook whatever he felt like cooking — Korean, Mediterranean, Italian; he didn’t want to be bound by any kind of food classification — and word got out, so he’d start serving those meals to customers,” explains Keith Mallini, director of operations for Kitchen Door. “The idea was that to get this food, they had to go through the kitchen door.”

After the closure of Martini House, Humphries continued to pursue global comfort food. He kept crafting dishes that seamlessly marry nostalgia with avant-garde preparations, and eventually opened Kitchen Door in Napa. So successful was this neighborhood that the brand expanded to Wai Kai last year.

Kitchen Door at Wai Kai encompasses two concepts under the same roof: full-service Plaza Grill and grab-and-go Boardwalk Café. The former is a casual-chic space that serves as the best of both worlds for diners wanting an open-air view of the ocean while still enjoying top-notch service for a seated meal.

“You feel like you’re entering someone’s beach house,” notes Mallini. “It’s right there on the lagoon with open windows and glass doors; it’s airy and sophisticated but not stuffy.”

Popular items on the Plaza Grill menu are chef Humphries’ kalbi ribs, which are also a big seller at the Napa location. “In fact, he was named one of the top Korean restaurants in Napa because of this dish,” says Mallini.

Another Napa staple that made its way to the islands is the chicken wings. Sounds simple, right? But the way Kitchen Door does it is a step (or two) above the rest. A single plate of wings takes about five days to prepare. From the drying of the herbs that go into the sauce to the brining, marinading and cooking, it’s a long process — but the results speak for themselves.

“The final plate is just the best plate of chicken wings you’ll ever have,” Mallini says.

While Humphries’ culinary creations can be seen (and tasted) all over the menu, there are also locally inspired dishes crafted by director of culinary Joseph Rose, who cut his teeth at locales like Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort, Baku Waikiki, Turtle Bay Resort and Trump International Hotel Waikiki.

Rose’s homemade tater tots, for example, have proven to be a customer favorite. Rather than rudimentary frozen tots from the grocery store, Plaza Grill’s are handmade into log shapes (for easier dipping) and accompanied by a homemade truffle powder and truffle aioli sauce.

Mallini adds that guests shouldn’t overlook the newly created grilled octopus nor the wood-fired pizzas (if you’re looking for a recommendation, he suggests the traditional pepperoni), which feature a housemade dough that’s prepared daily with fresh, local ingredients.

“There’s care and attention at every step in the production of every dish,” Mallini says. “Everything has a story, an origin. There’s something comfortable and our chefs puts their own twist on it.”

The same goes for desserts and libations. Guests ooh and ahh over Plaza Grill’s ube lava cake that’s serve with coconut gelato, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find someone that passes on the classic lemon tart of caramel s’more. Adult guests, meanwhile, revel in the restaurant’s mai tai. And it’s not any ordinary mai tai. The one at Plaza Grill features three Koloa rums — dark, coconut and white — with a pineapple infusion and a smoked charred pineapple whipped cream on top. While not overly sweet, it packs a punch that’s expertly hidden between the layers of flavor.

But Plaza Grill is just one part of what makes Kitchen Door the West side’s go-to destination for everything comestible.

For the more casual diner, Boardwalk Café serves up an array of to-go items that are easy to eat while taking a stroll along the lagoon or enjoying the warm sand beachside. Expect a lot of salads and sandwiches (we’re told the chicken sandwich is particularly noteworthy), as well as the ever-popular lobster roll that features half a lobster — “we’re talking big chunks, claw chunks and knuckles,” says Mallini — tossed in butter and served on a traditional New England roll.

A day at the beach wouldn’t be complete without a cool treat, and Boardwalk Cafe caters to both kids and adults with the state’s iconic shave ice on the menu. There are traditional confectionary flavors for minors, as well as adult-friendly syrups for those of legal drinking age.

Also for adults is a wine program featuring lesser-known varietals and blends that extends beyond the restaurants. Mallini, with the help of master sommelier Chuck Furuya, not only curated the wine list but also launched a Wine 101 program on Sunday afternoons.

“That’s been bringing out the community in droves,” adds Mallini. “It was once a month, but now we must do it twice a month it’s so popular. We’re drawing winos out from all around the neighborhood. We’re working on creating a community of people who love food and wine, and don’t want to have to drive into town.”

Kitchen Door Wai Kai, 91-1621 Keoneula Blvd. Ste. 3100, Ewa Beach, (808) 404-9121, kitchendoorwaikai.com