Jason Yamaguchi, chef supremo at the Espacio hotel and its fine-dining restaurant Mugen, is new to the culinary scene in Hawai‘i. But he seems at home here, given his family name; if you know food, you know Roy Yamaguchi, founder of the original Roy’s restaurant in Hawai‘i Kai. And so you might be wondering: Is there a connection?

“My uncle had just opened the Roy’s in San Francisco, and he asked [my father and I] to stop by for dinner,” the younger Yamaguchi says, recalling the evening that, at the age 15, his life changed forever. “That was the night Roy Yamaguchi asked me, ‘When are you going to come work with me?’ When I returned to Newport Beach, my parents took me to Macy’s to get my very first knife.”

He didn’t know anything about the culinary world—much less how to hold a knife properly. He even had to apply for a work permit, being a minor. But the passion was immediate: “The first real dish I made was osso buco, during the first week at Roy’s, and I came back all pumped [to cook it for my mom]. But I didn’t have the starch at home, so I took corn meal and milk to make a starch out of it. I realized about two years later—that was polenta!”

He scrapped plans to study business at USC, working at Roy’s Newport Beach for three years, then forgoing culinary school in favor of “the school of hard knocks.” Highly motivated, he pushed through the kitchens of California, honing his skills. He worked under Chef David LeFevre and Chef Joachim Splichal, two of the state’s culinary vanguards, both touting James Beard recognition and Michelin star pedigree. All the while, the up-and-coming Yamaguchi continued to improve his craft—and began creating a fusion cuisine all his own. Again, he cites family as an inspiration.

“My mom’s family is from Bordeaux and my dad was born and raised in Tokyo,” Yamaguchi says. “For me Japanese food just came naturally. My mom also cooked a lot of French food, stews, slow-braised meats.”

Accordingly, his style melds the similar elements of Japanese and French cusines to create an orchestra of elaborate-yet-refined dishes. His emphasis on technique showcases impeccable style, while also paying tribute to the ingredients. It’s the right mindset for modern fine dining, and, eventually, Yamaguchi started considering a change of pace from California life. But, as ever, while his passion was immediate, the results took time.

“A friend called and said he was living in Hawai‘i, and there was a new concept [for a hotel/restaurant] and he asked if I was interested,” says Yamaguchi. “It took close to a year before I heard back.”

When the call finally came, the proprietors wanted to see him on Kaua‘i— ‘tomorrow.’ He raced to the Garden Isle for a tasting and interview, and was soon preparing for his new role: Corporate Chef for Espacio, managing the dining and development of a brand-new luxury hotel experience, where all-suite accommodations are complimented by a Japanese-French restaurant, Mugen.

The 35-seat space is decidedly luxurious, cozy and cosmopolitan, located just steps from the shores of Waikiki Beach. Diners are welcomed by prized marble and rare wines, before being captivated by the open kitchen and its approachable chefs. À la carte options are offered, but the outstanding prix fixe menu speaks clearly to the Chef’s goal: employ the world’s finest ingredients.

“All the ingredients are essentially higher-end and we acquire the best we can get,” he says.

Sometimes that means local, as with Mugen’s bigeye tuna and micro greens, which come from Honolulu Fish Company and farmers at Metro respectively. Other times, it means sourcing off-island, like the lamb that’s flown in from Colorado and the caviar and truffles, both of which are imported from Europe.

While the menu at Mugen depends on season and availability, the options are always approachable, sensible and super premium. (At a recent dinner, there was fresh sweet Kona Lobster intertwined with house-made tagliatelle pasta and showered with decadent Alba white truffles.) One constant is the signature amuse-bouche, which places Sasanian Osetra Caviar atop vanilla panna cotta and serves on a fresh mochi blini.

This bite is an elegant blend of the Chef ’s heritage, offering a myriad of flavors that dance on your palate: savory and fresh, from the ocean, complimented by the creamy panna cotta; a hint of sweetness courtesy of the blini, which is also slightly chewy, a delightful departure from the expected.

So goes dinner at Mugen, a symphony of gastronomical flavors, blended worldly cuisines and mesmerizing textures. Courses arrive in unison, presented on custom tableware; and sometimes with a tableside flourish, such as a shaving of those aforementioned Alba truffles or a pour of edamame coulis to pool around a decadent stack of red crab. The food is remarkably elegant and feels innovative; the presentation will have you snapping for Instagram as well as savoring.

All of this is elevated further by the drinks selection. Within the Mugen cellar, and positioned behind the bar, you’ll also find some exceptional beverages, curated by Restaurant Manager Lee Kamimura. The wine collection features 1975 Dom Perignon, a 3.0L 2009 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac bottle and several other special occasion grapes and bubbles. Spirits come from far-and-wide, placing and new and old side-by-side, like the 50-year-old Appleton Estate Rum and Clase Azul Ultra Tequila from Spain. Premium Japanese beers Hitachino Nest and Ginga Kogen are on hand, but the craft “Purple Haze” by Kona Brewery (made especially for Mugen) is sure to win hearts, as it showcases Maui lavender.

Yamaguchi’s journey continues to progress, as Espacio is slated for expan- sion into other regions, including Europe and Japan. Meanwhile, the young chef with a strong family lineage has been welcomed to the islands, the place he can now call home, with open arms. Just like his uncle, who encouraged him to take a chance and step into the kitchen, there are other chefs offering to assist, support and guide Yamaguchi on this road.

“Everyone is so willing to help out,” he says. “In L.A. you’re on your own. But here, whenever I need something, the chefs are always there. We are all here to help each other.”

Mugen, Esapcio The Jewel of Waikiki, 2452 Kalakaua Ave., (808) 377-2247, espacio-waikiki.com