Culinary Alchemy
The pristine and unrivaled beauty of the islands of Hawai‘i have often inspired and drawn visitors from around the world. Originally coming from the seemingly concrete jungles of Tokyo, Manhattan and Paris, then immersing herself into the lush farms of Hawai‘i was not only a breath of fresh air for natuRe waikiki Executive Chef Nae Ogawa, but inspiration that continued to grow in her heart and her soul. “I developed a deep respect for nature by moving to Hawai‘i,” she says. “Because (for me) before Hawai‘i, nature was separated. I realized how food and nature is connected so I wanted to combine the two.”
Ogawa grew up in Tokyo, Japan and would watch her mother pridefully create dishes at home each day. Experiences in the kitchen continued into high school when she began working in a restaurant as a server. During that time, the restaurant underwent a rebrand and started serving something very unfamiliar… French Cuisine. After her first taste, Ogawa asked if she could work in the kitchen and absorb the craft of being a chef and learn the skills of French cooking techniques. At just 16 years old, she was one of the few female chefs in the kitchen in the region. Despite the norms, Ogawa went on to study in a Japanese culinary school. Little did she know this would pave the way for her passion and her eventual purpose in life.
After graduating from culinary school in Japan, Ogawa explored the culinary world by integrating herself into some of the best and most sought-after kitchens in the world. She worked at a multitude of the chef stations at two Michelin-starred Bouley in New York City and then La Bourse et La Vie, which is considered one of the best restaurants in Paris. Under the tutelage of award-winning chefs at highly rated and regarded restaurants, she eventually found herself on the tropical shores of Hawai‘i, thanks to another Japan native.
Seven years after culinary school, Ogawa was asked if she might be interested in flying her knives to Honolulu by friend and fellow chef, Yuya Yamanaka. The pair of Japanese chefs, who both specialized in French cuisine, met while in France, and Ogawa previously visited Hawai‘i a few times before to see her family on Hawai‘i Island.
Yamanaka was the Executive Chef at Paris.Hawaii and asked Ogawa to join him in Waikiki as his Sous Chef. After many wonderful memories together at Paris.Hawaii in the spring of 2020, everything came to a halt and the restaurant abruptly closed in August 2020. Yamanaka eventually found a new position with another restaurant group.
During that time of the closure, Ogawa was tasked with coming up with her own concept and inspiration for a fine dining restaurant in the same location where she worked as a Sous Chef.
“Paris.Hawaii closed due to COVID. There was all this time to think about what I really want to do,” she says.
Enthralled by the exceptional beauty of the islands and the uniqueness of the fresh produce, farmers and ranchers, Ogawa was inspired to create a new concept of dining that took it much further than farm to table. She wanted to create “Sustainable Island French” cuisine that not only harnessed the nutrients and deliciousness of fresh local food but allowed for sustainability and reduced the overall impact on the environment.
Thus, natuRe waikiki was born. The capitalization of the R in the name is meant to highlight regeneration and by definition (re) as a prefix means again and again, or repetition. Combining nature with regeneration is her goal to create a more supportive community for local farmers and Hawai‘i purveyors. As a new Executive Chef, with a restaurant with a new name and new concept, natuRe waikiki aims to awaken all the senses with its innovative use of implementing Hawai‘i-grown ingredients into every dish, craft cocktail and even the dining room decor. The candles are also made from recycled kitchen oil and organic aromas. The menu is diverse, full of whimsy and offers something for everyone. Diners at the Chef’s Counter can choose between a 6-course Regular Tasting Menu or a Plant- Based Tasting Menu. They also offer three different beverage pairing options to coincide with the prix fixe: a Wine Pairing, natuRe Pairing of housemade libations or Non-Alcoholic Pairing.
For those seated at the bar or in the dining room, they may order the set menu or from the ala carte menu as well. “We do have caviar and truffle too, it’s French cuisine and fine dining, but we use mainly local ingredients which enhance the meal with some Japanese flavors.”
But the real showstopper is sitting at the always popular prix fixe Chef’s Counter where all the live action is happening. Here, you will be indulged by watching all the magic happen and the elegant dance that is the chefs at play as they orchestrate your dining experience. Kiawe smoke, artisanal plates and pottery, along with intricate designs tempt your palate. Each course is engaging, expertly crafted to appeal to all the senses and like a performance, the plating and ingredients are the stars.
An exciting option when dining is the opportunity to mix and match your choices, if you’d like to try both the Regular Tasting and your partner would like the Plant-Based Tasting, you can each enjoy both. The Chef’s Table also allows for additional items to be ordered from the ala carte menu, meanwhile the main dining room and bar area allow guests to order from all the menus available.
As part of the seasonal menu, we were invited to sample some of the offerings and tastings underway… We opted to give both menus a try and here are a few of the highlights: the first course, for both the regular menu and the plant-based, was outstanding in both presentation and taste. Simply called “Dragon Fruit / Heart of Palm / Meyer Lemon,” this stunning dish served in a tall martini glass, activated the taste buds, and left you wanting more. Highlighting Kahumana Organic Farms in Wai‘anae, a perfect blend of dragon fruits and peaches is topped with celery root espuma, pickled apples, Puna Gardens heart of palm and finished with a Meyer lemon foam. The creamy and sweet from the base of the dish is complemented by the acid from the pickled apples and salty foams atop. It leaves a delectable mouth feel that is both sweet, savory and citrus. Textures are soft, subtle, yet crunchy and delicate. The mixture of taste and textures left us excited for the next course and the journey to come.
The second course of the plant-based menu was vibrant and enjoyable to watch. “Watermelon / Bell Peppers / Mac Nut Ricotta” made us forget this was a completely vegan meal so far. The Big Island macadamia nut ricotta is rich and creamy like that of soft cheese and topped with an elegant touch of local yellow, red bell peppers and zucchinis. The addition of the fresh vegetables adds lovely texture and crunch to the ricotta, and the presentation wows you as they pour a chilled watermelon gazpacho on to the dish. As you can imagine, these elements all together are both pleasing to the eye and stomach while remaining refreshing. This course is another amalgamation of smooth yet creamy, slightly sweet, fresh and crunch.
Chef Ogawa’s intention to blend influences is apparent in the next course for both the plant-based and regular diners. The “Wild Boar or Araimo / Pineapple / Mac Nut” course is paying homage to French, Japanese and Mexican influences. Using wild boar from Hawai‘i Island or araimo (Japanese sweet taro) as the main ingredient, these elements are both marinated in a homemade teriyaki sauce, then topped with Maui Gold pineapple, pickled cucumber and ginger.
Using local ulu flour, it is all wrapped in a small crepe/taco and is savory, meaty and enhanced by the ginger and pineapple elements. There is an evolving element of fun and whimsy as this meal progresses.
The last two courses showcase an elegant homemade ravioli with local lamb or gobo root. The consommé is delicate and enhanced with Big Island black peppercorns. Meanwhile the final dishes present Kahumana leeks prepared 3-ways, local peas and mushrooms.
Each dish from composition to execution is notably showcasing Hawai‘i farmers, local ingredients and enhancing them by using various cooking techniques to bring out the flavors and various nuances.
Just as nature is diverse, always changing and stunning in so many ways, natuRe waikiki aims to harness the natural, beautiful and creative ways to be sustainable, yet delicious. This is a brilliant concept that really shows appreciation for the food, farmers and communities supported on Kaua‘i, Maui, Hawai‘i Island, O‘ahu and Moloka‘i. The tastings are expertly crafted, and much time and effort are applied to really showcase the local ingredients.
natuRe waikiki, 413 Seaside Ave. #2F, Honolulu, (808) 212-9282, naturewaikiki.com