Soul Fed
When Makani Michiko sat down for our interview, she was in the midst of a whirlwind day. A friend with a baby was staying at her place, she was filling in for her property manager and maintenance was due to arrive for repairs. Yet throughout this chaos — a scene not unlike the frenetic energy of a busy restaurant kitchen — Michiko’s patient, generous and kind spirit never faltered. As a trained chef, she has clearly honed the art of thriving amidst pandemonium while staying true to herself.
As she recounted her story and shared her values, Michiko effortlessly multitasked. She helped feed her friend’s baby some breakfast, embodying her firm belief that “it takes a village,” juggled various errands and even found time to offer the maintenance workers some coconut water and honey from her beehive.
Originally from Kealakekua, Michiko now calls Honolulu home, having moved here to ensure her daughter receives a quality education. Before returning to the islands during the pandemic, Michiko left her mark on the Los Angeles food scene, where she established several restaurants. Among these, Pono Burger in Santa Monica stands out as her most acclaimed venture.
Michiko’s talent extended beyond the kitchen and into the realm of television, where she showcased her skills on celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s popular shows. Her appearances on MasterChef, MasterChef Junior and Uncharted not only highlighted her culinary expertise but also introduced her unique island-inspired perspective to a global audience.
Growing up in rural Hawai‘i, where her father chose horseback over automobiles and her mother made “food for the soul” every mealtime, Michiko’s connection to the ‘aina runs deep. This upbringing infused her with quintessential Hawaiian values, evident in the way she effortlessly weaves words like pono (righteousness), kuleana (responsibility) and malama (care) into conversation. It’s clear these concepts aren’t just vocabulary for Michiko — they’re the heart of her ethos.
It permeates her culinary endeavors, too, most notably at Ultimate Burger in Kailua-Kona. Here, Michiko’s commitment to local sourcing shines: vegetables from nearby farms, fish from local fishermen and beef from island ranches come together in a celebration of Hawai‘i’s abundant terroir.
“I don’t want food to be just a commodity,” she shares. “We grew up right; we want nine generations forward to be good, and that’s our kuleana.”
Currently, Michiko finds herself navigating a complex legal situation with her ex-husband, one that puts at stake the fruits of her 30-year career in the restaurant industry, including her intellectual property.
Despite this challenge, Michiko’s spirit remains unbroken. She regards the experience as “humbling” — one that has compelled her to learn discernment. Perhaps most tellingly, it hasn’t dimmed her passion for the restaurant world.
“I need to be the one writing the checks and taking care because I’m going to make sure everybody’s good. I buy the whole fish from the fishermen in Kona because that’s good for his ‘ohana ... We bless it, we break it down, we use the whole thing, so there’s no waste. I want my business to be like that.”
Michiko’s vision extends beyond the culinary realm, encompassing a broader philosophy of life and community.
When life evidently gets her down, Michiko and her friends reuse the same words of wisdom back and forth with each other: “Go get some shave ice.” It’s a simple yet profound reminder of the joy and comfort that food can bring — a philosophy that has guided Michiko throughout her journey.