White Haute

Celine’s modern rendition of the Holoku dress takes center stage for Spring/Summer 2018.

Simone Rocha added statement sleeves to her all-white ensemble.

(Photos courtesy brands.)

Most people know what a mu‘umu‘u is, lesser known is the traditional Hawaiian Holoku dress. My girlfriend explained the dress was adopted by Hawaiian royalty from the missionary wives in the early 1800s. Often in white with a high neckline, long sleeves and slightly longer train. The Holoku could be seen as the inspiration for one of this summer’s big looks, the white maxi dress.

For inspiration, look at the work of Jil Sander and her puritanical slightly sheer maxi. Celine’s take on the subject could have been a modern copy of a Holoku dress with long sleeves and a high neck. Other designers like Simone Rocha added big, fun mutton sleeves. Shoe choice is key to avoid looking bridal—flats, booties or sneakers are probably the best way to go. Talking of the Holoku dress leads me to think of a couple of high profile all-white events. Several times a year, you’ll find me scouring the stores looking for the perfect white outfit. The Make-A-Wish Gala is always a beautiful white affair, which benefits a truly special cause. Then there’s the Hawai‘i chapter of Diner en Blanc—a rip roaring all-white party, where the guests have no idea the event’s destination until the very last moment. The all-white look, whether in décor or clothing exudes sophistication, simplicity and calm, yet it’s subtly sexy.

If all this is a touch fancy for your taste, we can pare things back a notch. This season, the younger sister of the classic white T-shirt, the basic white tank is an easy summer add-on to your current wardrobe. Calvin Klein, The Row, Moncler all took pity on this forgotten staple. Miu Miu gave a sheer flowered dress some street cred by adding a white tank underneath. This is an easy way to toughen up a girly slip dress. Trends might come and go, but white never goes out of style. A simple white tee, a classic shirt, a beautiful white dress— practical it may not be but beautiful to be sure.

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.