School of Goth

Valentino goes Goth this fall, with looks inspired by one of our favorite sartorial-savvy villains: Cruella de Vil (photos courtesy Valentino).

WE ARE STRIDING INTO THE FINAL MONTHS OF THE YEAR DOMINATED BY A SERIES OF MAJOR AMERICAN HOLIDAYS WITH SPOOKY HALLOWS EVE FIRST UP. Plenty of costume inspiration could be found in the season’s collections with harlequin inspired looks at David Koma and Victoria Beckham. Beetlejuice came to mind with Marc Jacobs’ feminine black-and-white striped suit, and Valentino was one of several designers to give us Cruella de Vil looks. But overall, there was one look that truly ventured into macabre territory and became the bonafide fashion trend for these cooler months: Gothic glamor.

First up was Rodarte’s magical collection shown against the backdrop of a silver-toned banquet, with the Mulleavy sisters saying they were inspired by Japanese horror films. Beginning with 36 predominantly black looks, the styles pulled from classic Gothic clothing references: long dresses, bell-shaped sleeves which fell to the ground, long sweeping capes, and cobweb-inspired knits. The penultimate look was a silver dress finished with an oversized silver threaded cape with exaggerated shoulders and a long train. Glittering silver wings and a crown of thorns added to the noir fantasy. The show set in the Williamsburg Savings Bank in New York saw fall’s Gothic glamor trend take shape.

This new Goth look is both romantic and chic, with many looks falling into the eveningwear category. While the genre’s usual love for black remains the backbone of the style, the addition of color gave it new ground with burgundy leather as a popular option. Gabriela Hearst fashioned the fabric into a sleek bandeau midi dress, and at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, a voluminous puff-sleeved and wide skirt dress stood out, both in the purple hue. Delicate lace mixed with leather and a multitude of black sheer dresses, like those seen at Dolce & Gabbana, felt fresh, and sharpened the genre for a contemporary client. Every outfit spoke of being deeply cool and edgy.

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.