Rethinking Denim
Chanel denim on the runway at the Spring/Summer show. (photos courtesy Chanel)
From humble beginnings to the star of the fashion industry, denim has woven its way deep into our culture. Few materials can claim such a long and influential history.
The French can claim the origins, from the early 19th century, having created a strong regional cotton fabric called sergé de Nîmes. (Sound it out!) Around the same time, Italian textile manufactories were working on producing a long-lasting robust material they called Jeane. It all came together in the 1850s, at the gold mining hub of San Francisco, when tailor Jacob W. Davis made a pair of pants using denim-like cloth from a fabric salesman named Levi Strauss. By adding copper rivets, Davis gave the seams extra strength. Thus, the very first pair of hard-working jean pants.
Davis and Levi opened their first factory in 1873. The mass production of jeans begat one of fashions most significant trends. Nearly 150 years later, few things remain as satisfying as finding that perfect pair of jeans. Like everyone, I have a stack of them in many variations, from many seasons. But somehow this year’s crop seems especially fun. It’s time to toss aside your plain denim and search out some more unusual styles. There are plenty of options to consider. My top three styles to update your collection include:
1. Wide Leg From bootcut to flare, this leg-lengthening silhouette is back.
2. Two Toned If you try one new denim trend, make it this one. The dual-wash look works not just on pants, but also skirts and jackets.
3. Shorter Hemlines In Hawai‘i, shorter pant length is a friend for summer. Think about going from burmuda to culottes.
Similarly, designer takes abound. I saw brands like Celine and Givenchy embracing this malleable fabric on the catwalk, but it was Chanel’s dark wash pleated front jeans that most caught my eye on the denim trail. Who knew pleat-front pants would find a way back into my wardrobe, along with vintage washes and super-distressed styles? If you’re looking to invest in quality pieces, the likes of One Teaspoon, Re/Done, Khaite, Agolde and Slvrlake focus primarily on making jeans to flatter any body shape. From there, try changing things up by forgoing the obvious T-shirt and adding some sophistication to your look: pretty blouses, blazers and heels.
In times of stress, denim can make you feel stronger, but still flexible. It’s used in nearly every environment, for every activity. Clothing made from denim is the ultimate in form-follows-function, combining durability, reliability and comfort. Whatever tomorrow holds, you can trust it will be here.
Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.