Carpe Denim

Masha Popova for SS23 and denim look from Burberry (right).

(Photos courtesy brands.)

DOMINATING DENIM WAS A STRONG THEME FOR THE SPRING/ SUMMER 2023 SEASON. The question is how to fill your wardrobe with these exciting new styles. Untraditional denim was reimagined into many a new look by some of the most luxe brands in fashion, with even true denim brands switching things up with a multitude of new jean styles. At the more intense end of the scale were Pant Chaps, seen on Amber Valletta for Stella McCartney, to multiple renditions of the Canadian Tuxedo (head-to-toe denim) like those seen at AZ Factory and Burberry — but there are plenty of more wearable styles to renew our excitement for this hard-working fabric.

Making her catwalk debut with a near total denim collection was Ukrainian designer Masha Popova. Each look showed denim's versatility. It’s hard to signal out any one garment to mention, but with maxi skirts making a comeback, Popova’s many renditions were spot-on gorgeous. My favorite was made from wide-cut panels printed with faded stripes. Another great maxi was Alaia’s draped skirt with blue denim waistband. The body of the skirt gave the impression it was folded back, revealing the light gray inside of the denim fabric. Worn with a dark denim jacket and a mountain of pearl necklaces, each look was carefully constructed, sophisticated, and easy to add to your current wardrobe.

Making a happy appearance was the new denim dress. A.W.A.K.E Mode created several exquisitely crafted renditions: one made from alternating tones of denim disks loosely joined together to create a light and sexy dress, or the long-and-lean-sleeved dress cut on the bias with different-colored denim strips. Some might call this patchwork, but actually they were created using multi-tonal denim panels.

Sticking to a classic jean look, there are many new trends to gather, just keep it loose. Taking the most space in the jean market are Puddle Hems, such as those seen, well just about everywhere: Stella, Tibi, Jacquemus. Make them low and keep them baggy. Barrel Leg, a style I personally find incredibly easy and comfortable to wear, can be seen as at Bottega Veneta.

Making a big splash was the cargo jean. Not my favorite of styles, but when cut into shorts, like at Givenchy, I take an interest. The choices are plentiful, just don’t reach for the skinny.

Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.