A Classic Gem Reimagined
TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany HardWear freshwater pearl lock bracelet in sterling silver $1,600
JIMMY CHOO Romy 85 black suede pointy toe pumps with pearl detailing $795 (Photos courtesy brands)
Known as the Queen of Gems, pearls are one of the world’s most ancient gemstones and have been worn as adornment for millennia. Cultures have cultivated many myths and legends around these lustrous jewels. For some, they symbolize purity and wisdom. For others, they are thought to attract wealth and luck.
In Tahitian mythology, Oro, the god of war—and then the god of peace and fertility—visited the earth on a rainbow, bringing a magical oyster. He offered the black pearl within to the princess of Bora Bora as a symbol of love. So, it is no surprise,given Hawai‘i’s geographical location surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, that pearls hold a special place in our hearts, as well as our jewelry boxes.
The great designer Coco Chanel’s accessory of choice was the pearl, and she was often photographed with a pile of real and faux strands around her neck, declaring, “A woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls.” Diamonds might be a girl’s best friend, but pearls have timeless allure. They come not from the earth but rather from watery depths. They require no treatment, cutting or polishing, but come out of their shell already displaying their unique beauty.
From the prestigious white and gold shimmer of South Sea pearls to the naturally dark Tahitian pearl, each pearl is one-of-a- kind. Pearls have never really gone out of fashion, but in 2013 the luxury house of Lavin reimagined the gem into chunky necklaces bearing slogans such as Love or Hot. Pearls became cool again, and the show spawned an array of faux pearl jewelry, which everyone could enjoy. This fall, pearls took many forms—from sleek to organic—but each piece was a modern take on the use of this natural gem. While designers have been reigniting their love of all things pearl for the last few sea- sons, things seem to have reached a crescendo, garnishing not just jewelry, but bags, shoes and clothing as well. Topping it all was English designer Richard Quinn, who channeled the eccentric look of London’s iconic cockney pearly kings and queens, designing all-encompassing outfits covered in pearls from gimp mask to heeled shoe. Incredible! When it comes to more wearable options, there were plenty. Designer Prabal Gurung created gigantic show-stopping earrings using an abundance of white pearls mixed with colored stones. Then, there was a gold and pearl bracelet from Dior wrapped around the model’s wrist, which then wove between her fingers, stunning in its simplicity and very wearable.
With a modern twist, oversized pearl earrings from Altuzarra evoked memories of Johannes Vermeer’s 1665 painting Girl with a Pearl Earring. More and more designers are moving away from streetwear, and nothing screams luxury more than pearls. This once-sedate and ladylike gem has been turned on its head, ready to be worn with any outfifit from a classic suit to a leather ballgown. These are not your grandma’s pearls.
Kim Smith has been a professional wardrobe stylist in Honolulu since 2004. Born a true Londoner, Smith had a successful career in public relations in the fashion industry in London for more than eight years before moving to Hawai‘i in 2002. Smith’s work spans a vast array of magazines, retailers and television as well as working with individual clients on their specific style needs. See her work at kimsmithstyle.com.