The Art of Flour

Newly opened Mille Fête blends artistry and indulgence.

(Photo courtesy Mille Fête.)

When the world feels like it’s shifting beneath your feet, a finely — precise, delicate, each ingredient carefully considered — can be the perfect antidote to the chaos of modern life.

Who doesn’t have a better day when they take a moment to savor a good coffee and an exceptional pastry? Meditation may be zero calories, but it pales in comparison to the first bite of a stellar croissant— its exterior, crisp but never crunchy, giving way to a tender interior
— delicate yet rich. Holly Golightly had it right: savor a pastry, window shop in fr ont of Tiffany’s and you’ll feel better.

But what sets a fine pastry apart from an oatmeal cookie? Both offer comfort, warmth and kindness. But a fine pastry invites reflection. It speaks to patience, discipline and mastery — years of perfecting techniques like lamination, pâte à choux, glazing and macaronage that transform simple ingredients into sumptuous creations — an expression of skill, care and patience.

It’s no surprise that pastry chef Hana Quon (hanaquon.com) holds degrees in English literature and linguistics — story and structure are at the heart of her work. Take her Matcha Honoka‘a Chocolate Tart: a Kyoto-sourced matcha ganache, almond crust, salted caramel and a dark chocolate glaze. A single gold line runs across the top — straight, but not pristine — a thread connecting ancient Kyoto to modern pâtisserie where matcha is used by chefs across the U.S., Europe and Asia.

Quon’s culinary training has taken her from L’Academie de Cuisine in the U.S. to Paris and Lyon, where she trained under masters Jean-Michel Perruchon at École Bellouet and Sébastien Bouillet, the renowned macaron expert. Partnering with her mentor, world-renowned pastry chef Frederic Robert, she opened and ran Café Madeleine in Boston for a decade. For years, she split her vacations between Europe and Hawai‘i, before deciding to move here in 2023. Asked why Asian and Pacific ingredients — yuzu, matcha — have become as common as Earl Grey and apple in today’s bakeries, she credits the rise of Asian female pastry chefs and the growing desire to share personal identity through flavors.

Hana Quon’s Yuzu Meringue Tart.

(Photo courtesy Hana Quon.)

A fine pastry is more than comfort — it’s an art. Patience, discipline, and mastery turn simple ingredients into exquisite creations, each bite a testament to skill and care.

(Photo courtesy Hana Quon.)

“Once you have the training, the structure, the foundation,” she says, ”there’s freedom to introduce different tastes and tell your own story.” Even with years of training and numerous accolades, Quon notes that mastery is never truly achieved — it’s an ongoing, daily process.

“Every day, you start from scratch,” she says. ”You have to do it all over again, no matter how many times you’ve made something. Each day is a new chance to refine your technique, hone your craft. Success for me isn’t about perfection; it’s about the small, steady progress you make every day.”

The constant challenge, she explains, is what keeps her inspired and always pushing forward. For now, you can find her exquisite pastries at The Curb in Kaimukī — though, in true pastry chef fashion, she’s patiently searching for just the right place to call her own.

Despite this being a story specific to pastry, it’s hard not to mention Mille Fête, the recently opened bakery offering fine pastries alongside bao buns, cookies, sandwiches on freshly baked bread, ice cream and delicate eight-layer cakes. Partners Katherine Yang, Robynne Mai‘i and Chuck Bussler describe Mille Fête (millefete.com) as a love letter to their community.

As the name suggests, it’s a place to celebrate. For the founders this means celebrating the flavors, ingredients and food they love. Yang, a seasoned NYC pastry chef with a hefty pedigree, having worked in the kitchens of Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller, and Mai‘i, a James Beard Award-winning chef, have created a space in Chinatown, Honolulu that feels both warm and thoughtful. And, of course, filled with sweet and savory bites that bring joy to both baker and recipient.

Mille Fête offers offering fine pastries and delicate eight-layer cakes.

(Photo courtesy Mille Fête.)