Long May It Reign

Regiis Ova (“royal egg” in Latin) was founded in 2017 by renowned chef Thomas Keller and caviar executive Shaoching Bishop ...

(All photos courtesy Regiis Ova by David Escalante.)

Caviar has become the culinary equivalent of a neon sign — spooned onto everything from ice cream to fried chicken to signal luxury. Instead of inviting diners to savor the simple elegance of a briny taste of the sea, it is too often served as a stunt: bumps on the back of the hand, dollops on anything that sits still, performance rather than appreciation.

In the United States, only the unfertilized eggs of sturgeon may legally be labeled caviar; everything else is roe. Eggs from salmon, trout and flying fish — those bright orange, glassy spheres common on sushi and canapés — are correctly called roe, no matter how they are marketed.

Against caviar’s current loud moment, Regiis Ova offers quiet luxury at its best — more Loro Piana than Versace. Regiis Ova (“royal egg” in Latin) was founded in 2017 by renowned chef Thomas Keller and caviar executive Shaoching Bishop to bring transparency back to an increasingly opaque industry. Keller wanted to offer guests better caviar at better value, and Bishop, who spent years in the caviar industry, knew the only way to achieve that was to work directly with farms and take on the unglamorous labor of sourcing.

To produce the finest caviar, Bishop notes that impeccable water quality and proper purging are essential. Purging — holding farmed sturgeon in clean, flowing, or filtered water and withholding food briefly — allows the fish to clear their digestive tracts of muddy or off-flavors. At well-run farms, purging is part of a broader quality protocol that includes water management, stress reduction, and precise harvesting, all of which help the eggs achieve maximum pop, clarity, and length of flavor once salted and packed.

Together, the chef and former finance executive built a company that hand-selects caviar from a small group of trusted sturgeon farms across Europe, Asia, and the Americas. Their approach relies on long-term relationships with sustainable producers, rigorous grading, and hands-on selection. Bishop, who began her career at Goldman Sachs and Prudential Capital Group, often says her love of literature and poetry — she earned her undergraduate degree in Chinese literature from Zhejiang University — is what equips her to connect with suppliers and chefs on a human scale.

Across the street from The French Laundry, Keller’s RO Restaurant and Lounge offers tasting flights of Regiis Ova caviars. The chef de cuisine of RO Restaurant is Hawai‘i-born Jeffrey Hayashi, former chef de cuisine at Honolulu’s Senia. His menu is rich in Japanese offerings: a chirashi bowl with a caviar option, vegetable tempura from The French Laundry Garden, and Hokkaido scallops cured in kombu. Good-to-know intel for Hawai‘i travelers to Napa who might be craving a steaming bowl of rice, the menu includes a side of Koshihikari rice.

And of course, Keller’s most famous caviar dish — Oysters and Pearls — is available across the street. But you don’t need Thomas Keller’s talent to enjoy caviar. A spoonful of good caviar over a dollop of sour cream or crème fraîche (for more richness and less tang) on an unsalted cracker, a slice of warm potato, or toasted brioche is simple and delicious. Pair with a crisp Champagne and toast to quiet luxury, no fist bumps allowed.

Keller aimed to offer better caviar at a fairer value, and Bishop knew that meant sourcing directly from farms. For Bishop, exceptional caviar begins with pristine water and proper purging, allowing the fish to clear any off-flavors before harvest.

(All photos courtesy Regiis Ova by David Escalante.)