Java Jolt
Ah, coffee. The staple beverage Americans “run on.” Find it at the corner store. Find it at Starbucks. Find it at French Laundry. It’s ubiquitous. With so many different roast and flavor options, in so many different price ranges, sold by so many different companies, finding good coffee can be dizzying. Even in Hawai‘i, the only U.S. state to grow coffee, you would think we would know more about coffee, but even sorting through the marketing noise can be difficult. So how do you know what’s in your cup? And what does “good” coffee even mean?
First, let’s get grounded. Coffee is a small tree that produces red berry-like cherries. The seeds inside the cherries — what we know as coffee beans — are cleaned, fermented, roasted, and ground up to make the liquid beverage we enjoy. Growing coffee in Hawai‘i is possible because the plant thrives in tropical climates and loves our rich, volcanic soil.
If you’re a wine drinker, then you’re probably familiar with the term terroir, the taste of a place. Like wine, coffee has properties of terroir where each plant grown in its unique environment will express those flavors in the cup. That means, coffee grown in Kona will taste different from coffee grown in Ka‘u, even though they’re only a two-hour drive apart. Now imagine how different coffees can taste countries away from Costa Rica, Kenya, or Indonesia!
Hawaiian coffee got its commercial start in the 19th century but became more prominent in the 1980s when much of Hawai‘i’s cane fields were replaced with coffee. With more than 8,300 acres of coffee in our state, there are coffees from O‘ahu, Kaua‘i even Moloka‘i, each with its own terroir. Unblended coffees, 100% from a specific region, or even one farm,
is known as single origin or single estate. This will give you a representative taste of that place. Why blend coffees then? The beauty of a blend allows roasters to combine unique flavor notes and make them shine together as you would expect from a cocktail. For example, flavors missing from an Oahu coffee can be balanced by adding one from Kona, vice versa. When buying blends, take a look at the label — it’ll tell you how much of which type of coffee, and its origin, the roaster crafted together.
So, we’ve figured out what’s in our cup. How do we know our coffee is “good”? One way to determine that is through the coffee’s traceability. Traceability ensures that the coffee is not only ethically sourced, but also of high quality. It encourages transparency, sustainability, and accountability along the supply chain from “farm to cup.”
And then, there’s you, the drinker! What flavors do you like? Roasty, toasty, chocolate? Fruity, floral, dynamic? Just like with anything, “good” to you is different from “good” to someone else. And coffee isn’t just “bold and smokey.” There are coffees that taste like molasses, strawberry punch, and pineapple upside down cake. New processing techniques are still being invented to widen the flavor spectrum further. To get the best appreciation for the unique attributes in your cup, consider foregoing cream or sugar. Remember, coffee is a fruit, so it should taste sweet! A “good” coffee can be enjoyed black without any help — that’s how you’ll know.
Need a little help on where to start your Hawaiian coffee journey? Here are some recommendations ...
ROASTERS
BIG ISLAND COFFEE ROASTERS
For Hawaiian specialty coffee
If you’re looking to try specialty coffees across the Hawaiian Islands, look no further. The team at BICR values everything from the coffee they buy, the local communities they support, to the impact they have on the environment. They even have a Hawaiian Coffee Club subscription that delivers coffee to your doorstep. Check out their new space in Hilo where you can enjoy a good cup and see their roastery in action! 76 Kalanianaole St., Hilo, bigislandcoffeeroasters.com
KONA COFFEE PURVEYORS
For specialty Kona coffees
Set on trying coffees from Hawai‘i’s most well-known coffee region? Find single-estate Kona coffees and different Kona varieties at KCP. Their branding and pack- aging are stunning, and their Waikiki shop is on almost every travel list. And if you love a sweet treat with your coffee, you’ll be excited to find b.patisserie in the same space. International Marketplace, 2330 Kalakaua Ave #160, Honolulu, konacoffeepurveyors.com
PARADISE COFFEE ROASTERS
For unique coffees from Hawai‘i and beyond
Take a look at Paradise’s coffee line-up and you’ll quickly see some rare and exclusive coffees on the list. There are award-winning Hawaiian coffees along with some of the best coffees in the world. If you prefer black coffee, try Paradise’s “Champagne Natural” coffees — coffees fermented using wine yeast strains developed by Miguel Meza, the founder of Paradise. Visit their roastery in Hilo where you can sample and purchase premium brews at their storefront. 250 Keawe St., Hilo, paradiseroasters.com
COFFEE SHOPS
TRY COFFEE
For knowledgeable baristas
Trying to up your coffee game? Stop by TRY Coffee to not only “try coffee” from Hawai‘i and beyond, but get coffee recommendations and brewing tips from seasoned coffee professionals who will ensure you get the most out of your coffee. Besides their incredible hospitality and fun mugs, TRY features a cozy lanai, perfect for soaking up the sun and Kaka‘ako city views. 1200 Ala Moana Blvd., 2nd Floor, Honolulu, try.coffee
BEAN ABOUT TOWN
For solid brews and more
Bean About Town is the epitome of a neighborhood spot: a line out the door each morning, a regular or two who’ve made it their unofficial office, and friendly baristas serving up good vibes. Aside from specialty coffee selections, you’ll find drinks with local flavors, delicious treats and shelves packed with coffee in case you want to play barista at home. And you won’t have to pardon the owner’s French — café proprietor Olivier Vetter speaks it perfectly well. Pop in and say “al-loh!” when you decide to pay this little gem a visit. 3538 Waialae Ave #101, Honolulu, beanabouttown.com
OUTPOST COFFEE
For coffee with a little extra something
Tucked in the back of Hanalei Market, Outpost Coffee serves a selection of local Hawaiian brews and rotating drinks that will brighten your day. Whether it’s a cold brew, a latte, or a specialty espresso soda topped with housemade coconut whip cream, there’s something for everyone and their caffeine consumption. 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kaua‘i, outpostcoffeekauai.com
KOANA
For slow, black coffee
Between Hilo and Volcanoes National Park in Mountain View, you’ll find Food & Wine’s 2022 best Hawai‘i coffee shop, Koana. The shop displays a full appreciation of the Big Island — from its coffees and local goods to their commitment to sustainability and community. Serving up delicious pour overs, drinking chocolate, and teas, Koana is a place to relax and talk story over a good cup while time slows for just a moment. 18-1325 Old Volcano Road, Mountain View, Hawai‘i Island, alohakoana.com