Luxury lies hidden in the heart of Kailua. Among the independent mom-and-pop shops and retailers that emit small-town vibes lies a secret establishment reminiscent of the speakeasies of the 1920s and ’30s — and you’ve likely driven past it without a second glance. 

Well, it’s not really a secret, much like how speakeasies of the Roaring Twenties were Prohibition’s worst-kept secrets. But Gaslamp is precisely how one would envision a Prohibition-era gin joint, complete with dark wood walls, dim lighting, era-appropriate furnishings and a hint of exclusivity — plus a clandestine entrance, of course. And technically, it’s not a speakeasy either. For one, it’s legal; and two, it’s not as discrete as its predecessors. But don’t get hung up in the technicalities of the establishment. Instead, enter and get caught up in an epicurean feast for the senses. 

Guests will find the Gaslamp entrance in Kailua Town Pub & Grill on Ho‘ola‘i Street, a bustling local English pub that has sports playing on screens ’round the restaurant and beers on tap along the bar wall. Seemingly out of place is an unassuming vintage telephone booth, which grants access to the swanky jazz lounge space. The ingress keeps to tradition by requiring a spoken password — where the term “speakeasy” comes from — that is given prior to your reservation time. 

“(This) speakeasy concept transcends your typical dining experience and creates a unique experience in transformative space with appealing allure,” notes managing partner Clark Dean.

It was a first for Hawai‘i at the time, and while the idea gained popularity with more joints popping up over the years, none are as opulent as Gaslamp. It’s inspired by San Diego’s vogue Gaslamp Quarter, which is known for its eccentric bar and restaurant scene. 

“There, they really show that ambiance comes first,” adds Dean. So, it comes as no surprise that the décor within Gaslamp is first-rate. It’s impressionably elaborate with Gatsby-esque details found throughout the space. Find faux gold-foiled walls that blend with the copper pipes, as well as tufting leather booths, Icelandic fur chairs and a walnut-wrapped bar, all paying homage to the 1920s style in vogue at the time. “We also use gas lamps to create ambient lighting dispersed between seatings,” Dean adds. 

While the space is lauded for its ability to transport diners to another time, the food is the antithesis of the lackluster canapes often served at speakeasies of the past that were merely designed to sober up inebriated guests and drum up more sales. 

At Gaslamp, there’s caviar service, otoro tartare and day-boat oysters for seafood lovers, while those who fancy themselves red meat connoisseurs can enjoy a French Laundry swinging wagyu tomahawk carved tableside for their enjoyment. There’s also a steak-centric culinary program that features a grade A4 and A5 Japanese wagyu sampling platter, as well as the two-course King Arthur dinner complete with snow crab claws followed by beef Wellington with black truffle demi glacé and dinosaur bone marrow with escargot. 

“Compared to other steakhouses, we are honored to offer the highest-grade Japanese wagyu and elaborate table side presentations,” says Dean. “Signature menu items transcend the realm of most steakhouses.” 

But speakeasies wouldn’t have experienced their mercurial rise if not for the libations, and Gaslamp is no different. It goes above and beyond with elevated cocktail creations that blend modern flavors with classic presentations. 

The When in Rome features botanical gin, aromatic bergamot and rose amaro, while Vipers Brood blends smoky mezcal with yuzu citrus, torched thyme and green chartreuse aromatics. For a tropical flavor profile, enjoy Rainbow Wings with aromatic rum agricole, velvet falernum, macadamia orgeat, liliko‘i and coconut foam served in a Day-of-the-Dead skull mug with a torched lime boat. 

There’s also the kiawe wood-smoked Spotted Cat maple walnut Manhattan that comprises Whistle Pig Rye, Nux Alpina and Cynar 70, and for coffee lovers, Foreclosure of a Dream pairs a decadent espresso martini with Koloa dark rum, cold brew and more with a torched cinnamon cigar. 

“The dynamic nature of our cocktail creations, spontaneously developing cocktails to appeal to clientele preferences, creates an engaging experience and adds to the unique appeal of our beverage program,” explains Dean, who adds that Gaslamp also has a sommelier-curated wine portfolio featuring cellared selections. 

While brilliant bartenders and chefs with showmanship make for part of an evening affair at Gaslamp, entertainment rounds out the immersive experience. The expansive loft space lends itself to taking in the silhouetted jazz artists performing on the upper mezzanine levels and the bar top burlesque dancers that give the joint an atmosphere that’s somewhat illicit in nature. 

Dean adds, “We very much value the opportunity to have established Gaslamp as a destination for special occasions and are honored to offer a memorable experience that resonates with locals seeking a more unique experience, clientele with world city tastes and entertainment icons.” 

Gaslamp, 26 Ho‘olai St., Kailua, (808) 829-0867, gaslamphi.com