When Leila opened its doors in September to much fanfare, it was kind of expected. It is, after all, helmed by chefs Chris Kajioka and Mourad Lahlou, the duo behind the successful Miro Kaimukī and culinary masters in their own rights. French-trained Kajioka is known locally for his stint as executive chef at Vintage Cave, as well as being the creative mind behind Restaurant Senia. Michelin-starred Lahlou, meanwhile, is famous for his eponymous restaurant, Mourad, and San Francisco-based Aziza.

In fact, the two would first meet at Aziza when Kajioka applied to be Lahlou’s sous chef. “He was an hour late for the interview, so I was a little pissed because I was outside in the rain,” recalls Kajioka.

Thankfully, first impressions aren’t always accurate and the culinary chemistry between the two sparked. The interview ended up being a three-hour conversation, and Kajioka left Aziza knowing that the two of them would one day do something great. Fast-forward 15 years and they have two “something greats” to show for it in Miro and Leila.

When asked what sets Leila apart from other eateries around the island, Kajioka’s answer is simple: Mourad. “I have never worked with a person who has a better palate,” Kajioka says. “He is not a born chef, he is a born cook. The flavors are punchy but balanced. It’s addicting.”

While first impressions were wrong where Kajioka and Lahlou are concerned, the initial presentation is everything at Leila — which translates to “night” in Moroccan and has a local-style ring to it that endears it to Hawai‘i. From the moment you spot the blue-hued exterior, you know it’s something special. The distinct shade is based on the color French designer Yves Saint Laurent painted his home in Marrakesh, a fitting homage considering Lahlou hails from the same Moroccan city as the fashion mogul.

“We wanted Leila to capture the elegance of Moroccan design with its richness and depth, using a modern perspective from YSL and yet having a strong sense of place in Kaimuki,” explains Lahlou. The result is a comfortable yet luxurious space beautifully decorated with rustic and gold accents in which diners can indulge in Moroccan delicacies over three decadent courses.

“We wanted to put a menu together for Leila that would be reflective of the way we approach a meal in Morocco,” says Lahlou.

And how do they eat in the Kingdom of the Sun? Much like we do in Hawai‘i — family style. “We do cherish the idea of everyone eating from the same vessel in a very social setting,” he adds.

A typical meal in Morocco normally starts with a set of salads adorning the table. It’s meant to be a welcome sign for those invited and way to usher in the meal. “Typically, seven salads are offered,” says Lahlou. This explains the aptly named first course, The Seven Salads, on Leila’s menu. “Seven is a sacred number in Morocco believed to bring good vibes and luck.”

It features dishes highlighting olives, cucumbers, eggplant, hummus (mashed chickpeas), muhammara (a roasted red pepper dip) and more — all served with za’atar flatbread.

“In any setting, when people get together for a meal in Morocco, we always start with a set of salads that would adorn the table and be a welcoming sign for family members and guests,” explains Lahlou.

The recent prix-fixe menu featured a second course of charred cabbage with a date chermoula and vadouvan sauce. The final course is portioned for two and recently showcased options like a succulent wagyu short rib (an interpretation of Moroccan tangia); a lamb mechoui in which the sweetness of prunes offsets the rich gaminess of the lamb; a Mediterranean branzino with green herb-based chermoula and a red tomato-based version; or roasted cauliflower that combines brown butter couscous, harissa and spiced cauliflower for an exciting medley of flavors.

In addition to the three-course menu, there are add-ons like the basteeya, a dish that epitomizes Moroccan cuisine. In this creation, a phyllo pie is filled with duck, caramelized onions and toasted nuts.

“It is served on very special occasions in Morocco and symbolizes happiness, togetherness and community in their purest forms,” says Lahlou. “Food is a huge part of what identifies us as a people. Chris and I wanted to bring that sense of community and togetherness to our guests at Leila.”

Kajioka and Lahlou foresee Leila’s menu continuing to evolve, whether it be with the seasons or diners’ palates. “As we continue to work towards perfecting our current menu, we constantly change and tweak our dishes,” explains Lahlou. “Some dishes have already become instant classics and will most likely have a place on our menu for the foreseeable future, but overall, the menu will continue to change and be finessed.”

Joining Kajioka and Lahlou at Leila are chef de cuisine Jorge Velazquez, Jason Corrales Diaz, who’s head of the cocktail offerings, and James Renshaw, who oversees the wine program.

Leila’s cocktails expertly balance classic drinks with Moroccan flavors. This is never more evident than in the Date Grove, an upscale twist on an Old Fashioned that features the velvety, sweet flavor of dates, which were often served to royalty. For a refreshing libation, the Country Lemon uses preserved lemons popular in Moroccan cooking. A spritz of club soda brings out the effervescence and aromas with each sip. “(It) has a salty-citrus flavor profile that can also be seen throughout the food,” Lahlou says. “Preserved lemons are probably Morocco’s greatest contribution to the culinary world.”

The fruit is on full display in Leila’s yuzu custard that honors the country’s citrus season. But those wishing for a more epicurean dessert will enjoy the date cake served with salted caramel sauce and milk ice cream.

In the heart of Kaimuki, Leila has dazzled guests with its culinary mastery since opening, yet it still manages to be down-to-earth, making diners feel at ease, like they’re enjoying a meal at someone’s home. It likely stems from Kajioka’s roots in the area. He grew up on 11th Avenue and later moved to 9th, where his parents still reside. Having Miro and Leila be close together was important for Kajioka, not just logistically but, as he says, “This neighborhood is home.”

Leila, 1108 12th Ave. Ste. C,
Honolulu, leilahnl.com