Butterfly Effect
They say an architect is someone who designs, builds and constructs ... As a teen right out of high school Lawrence Nakamoto thought he wanted to be an architect. “After two weeks I realized, I didn’t enjoy it very much. I can’t be sitting down for so many hours of the day,
that is not what I like to do.”
After some introspection Nakamoto realized he truly loved to cook and had fond memories designing, building and constructing dishes in his parent’s kitchen as a child. “I thought to myself, ‘what do I really enjoy?’ and it occurred to me that I always liked cooking especially for special occasions,” said the gentleman who grew up in Waialae Iki.
Childhood memories near the seashore also meant many joyful hours and fond flashbacks of fishing with his dad and picking opihi from the lava rocks. After attending Kapi‘olani Community College’s award-winning culinary arts program, Nakamoto spent a decade honing his craft in the kitchen. First at Aaron’s fine-dining restaurant, previously located at the top of the Ala Moana Hotel, then Uraku Tower, which he recalls changed restaurant ventures and owners “Three to four times” and Il Lupino at Royal Hawaiian Center. Much of what Nakamoto was cooking was Italian-influenced, while his favorite foods to eat were japanese and most notably, sushi.
“I came to Neiman Marcus six years ago as a cook and slowly worked my way up. I always wanted to be an executive chef, but being a chef here isn’t just overseeing Mariposa restaurant ... It also includes three restaurants within Neiman Marcus and all the store functions, specialty dinners/events and buyouts.” Transitioning to manning the helm at Neiman Marcus and Mariposa in the summer of 2017, was a hefty task, and even more impressive [at the time] Nakamoto hadn’t even turned 30 years old yet.
With a fresh local perspective and a hunger for showcasing local ingredients, supporting local farmers and local producers while enticing local people to return to Mariposa ... Nakamoto set out to attempt to source as much as he could from Hawai‘i. “I really try to think about one local ingredient (as the focal point) in each dish and be focused on sourcing locally.” The farm- to-table movement has continued to grow, evolve and change over time, but Nakamoto feels now more than ever consumers, chefs and residents need to do what they can to giveback to our island community.
“In the past, [Mariposa] had a lot of things that were just domestic [from the mainland] and I realized a lot of things, about why it is so important to use local ingredients now and for the future. This is really driving me because if we don’t take care of what we have, we won’t have anything in the end. And I think that’s the important thing, not only for us cooking in the kitchen but everyone who eats too, needs to realize.”
Nakamoto says being an executive chef also allows him the opportunity and the freedom to craft local dishes, harness local flavors and be more creative. Much of his culinary foundation is based on Italian and French cuisine, but his passion lies in Asian flavors and Hawaiian meets Asian combinations. Much of the new Spring Menu at Mariposa is focused on local flavors and local components from a diverse array of Asian cultures.
A highlight that has hit a high note with diners is the new Pono Pork
ribs, which are prepared adobo style. Braised in adobo sauce then delicately smoked with Applewood and topped with marinated tomatoes and onions. The ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, have a gentle hint of smokiness and a delightful marriage of tart and savory.
Sourcing the ribs from locally grown and naturally farmed Pono Provisions, means the pork comes from Wai‘anae, is 100-percent, naturally vegetarian-fed and looked after without the use of hormones, chemicals or pesticides. “We used to order just 40 pounds a week and now we are up to 80 pounds a week.”
Another new menu item specially crafted for Chef ’s spring offerings includes Kona Abalone served escargot-style. Elegantly prepared with an ogo, shiso and yuzu butter, the abalone resembles escargot and is served with toasted French baguette slices. Chef’s decision to utilize shiso gives this dish a new flavor element, which is refreshing to taste. He also wanted to try something different than just lemon, butter and herbs, so he tried yuzu (japanese citrus) and Mari’s Gardens micro greens for the acid and herb highlights. This is an innovative take on an otherwise very traditional French dish but now with japanese influences.
Take note of the J. Ludovico Farm half chicken, where the chickens are free-range, processed the same day they are received, extremely fresh and moist. A vegan option standout is the roasted Beet and Tofu “Poke Bowl” which incorporates crispy tofu, red and golden farm fresh beets, a menagerie of brilliant vegetables and served over furikake brown rice.
Since taking the reins in the kitchen, Nakamoto has increased the number of locally sourced products on the menu to an average of 30 percent. “The farmers are all very appreciative to be brought on,” he says.
Despite the occasional increase in inventory cost to think globally and source locally, the team at Mariposa are united in their efforts to watch our economy thrive, while sharing gourmet cooking, responsible farming and locally grown ingredients with guests.
“Just to grow and keep our economy strong is what I really thought about. Certain items may cost more locally but I don’t think that really matters ... We want to support the community that has supported us for the last 20 years so we can give back.”
Mariposa at Neiman Marcus, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., 808-951-3420 or neimanmarcus.com