Long ago, fishermen gathered in ancient seaside villages throughout Northern Japan. They would grill fresh catch over premium binchōtan (white charcoal), while swapping stories. Using extra-hard Ubame Oak to slow-cook their seafood, they perfected a fireside grilling tech- nique known as robatayaki.

From this shared style of open-flame comes Binchōtan: Bar & Grill, a new indoor-outdoor dining hub at the Fairmont Orchid Hawai‘i on the Big Isle’s Kohala Coast. The experience successfully reimagines a centuries-old concept in a modern setting, offering grilled skewers, handcrafted sushi and decadent desserts, all while channeling the communal spirit of sharing.

“Binchōtan offers a fresh, contemporary vibe for folks looking for a fun gathering place to share great food, cocktails and conversation,” says Chef De Cuisine Justin Kalaluhi.

Located in the space previously occupied by Norio’s Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar, Binchōtan is the product of a multi-million dollar renovation. The open design of the 1,500-square-foot eatery integrates woven rope furniture and metallic finishes, weaving in evocative Hawaiian patterns with a fiery red and charcoal palette. An elongated, full-service bar is a standout feature of the indoor dining room, while two fire pits complement the alfresco space, which looks out over the resort’s spacious grounds and the ocean beyond.

According to Kalaluhi, food is prepared on a traditonal robata grill imported from Japan. This “allows food to cook at 800 degrees” while giving “meat, seafood and produce a delicious smoky flavor,” he says.

Boasting a flavorful char, Binchōtan’s robata-grilled items range from
the carrot ginger vinaigrette, which dresses the shaved root vegetable salad, to the ribeye steak. Other highlights include chicken yakitori, smoked pork belly, tiger prawns in yuzu butter, mahimahi, asparagus in kimizu sauce and bone-in shortribs.

To taste more of the grilled menu, Kalaluhi recommends the Robatayaki Experience. This gives diners a chance to feast on the chef’s daily selection of signature grilled items, served with an array of seasonings, sauces and rice.

All menu items feature plates meant to be shared ʻohana style. Appetizers include dungeness crab sunomo with heart of palm, pork gyoza in a shallot ginger sauce, and tempura cauliflower in a Korean chili sauce, as well as wakame, an edible seaweed grown by Japanese farmers for more than 1,300 years.

Then there are the bowls. These dishes are designed for multiple diners, and fare is familiar: pork belly fried rice and beef donburi featuring Wagyu short rib. The chirashi is made with local sashimi, the udon dish stars mushrooms sourced from the Hamakua Coast, and the macadamia nut shrimp appetizer incorporates honey gathered from hives located around the resort.

“We’re proud to manage four on-site beehives housing about 80,000 honeybees; they produce a delicious and rare kiawe (mesquite) honey,” says Kalaluhi, who was born on Kaua‘i. “We believe in sourcing our ingredients locally if possible, and are especially proud when they can be sourced hyper-locally.”

The approach might be fresh, but Kalaluhi hasn’t thrown the baby out with the bathwater. Some of Norio’s top sushi items—rainbow roll with succulent crab, tuna, salmon, kampachi and ono; the spicy tuna roll in a sambal mayo and several nigiri and sashimi selections— remain on the menu.

“We added some specialty handcrafted sushi rolls,” he notes. “Standouts include the ‘Big Island Roll’ with kampachi, habanero masago and preserved lemon. The ‘Volcano Roll’ is essentially a California roll with spicy tuna, ito katsuo and unagi sauce.”

On the drinks front, Binchōtan’s cocktail list errs on the side of approachability. The menu even contains handy barometers for gauging which drinks are sweet/fruity, citrus/light, and bitter/dry. One standout is the Bee Sting, crafted with the on-site honey and Hawaiian chili peppers grown in the resort’s garden. The full bar also offers sake flights and a selection of whiskeys, plus a wine list that provides vintages from around the world.

But what about desserts? Here, Binchōtan doesn’t break from the stylings of grilled culinary repetoire. The robata-grilled pineapple malasada, served with nut ice cream and a soothing rum sauce, is a treat. The decadent chocolate mochi cake is similarly clever, accompanied by a smoky sesame ash ice cream that’s paired with yuzu creme anglaise.

“As a gift to our guests, we’re pleased to offer everyone who dines at Binchōtan: Bar & Grill complimentary, housemade charcoal macaroons,” smiles Kalaluhi. These sweet cookies expertly depict smoldering charcoal briquettes. Following a meal inspired by ancient fires, this modern treat is a seriously cool tribute. Binchōtan: Bar & Grill, Fairmont Orchid Hawaii, One North Kaniku Dr., (808) 887-7320. Reservations are recommended.