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Good Greens

Technology is quietly changing your salad bowl. If eating more leafy greens is a necessary, but not always delicious endeavor for you, I challenge you to taste again.

Dark, leafy lettuces are rich in antioxidants, folate, potassium and vitamins K and A. But beyond its nutritional benefits, lettuces picked at peak ripeness are full of diverse flavors and textures. Salads have always been my jam — I stake my cooking self-respect on making a good salad. I once crossed paths with Julia Sherman, author of Salad for President in San Francisco and it was a complete fan girl moment. (Hint: Follow her on Instagram or order a copy of her book for excellent inspiration on artful salad making.)

Whether layered, composed or tossed, a stellar salad begins with good greens. A decent salad won’t happen if your greens are wet — dampness compromises flavor, texture and nutritional value. Using technology to optimize growing conditions and to minimize inputs of energy and water, Sensei Farms is growing pristine lettuces, leafy greens and tomatoes on Lana‘i and making its long-lasting products available to markets and restaurants across Hawai‘i.

I first became curious about Sensei Farms in 2022 when a pack of its mixed greens I purchased remained remarkably fresh after more than two weeks in the refrigerator. This piqued my curiosity on the technology used by the farm. Grown in solar powered greenhouses the farm produces 18 times the yield of greens grown on conventional outdoor fields. Founded by Dr. David Agus and tech entrepreneur Larry Ellison, the objective of Sensei Farms is to produce nutrient-dense food that is good for both the planet and its people.

Sensei Farms, Lana‘i General Manager Christian Ibanez says it starts with the careful selection and testing of each seed, and once they find the right variety, it’s like discovering a gem. “Our farm team brings these greens to life with such care and attention, ensuring they’re as fresh and flavorful as possible. I take great pride that every package is hand packed. The team is so proud of feeding our community,” says Ibanez. Sensei Farms products grown
on Lana‘i are distributed across the Islands. A second farm in Ontario, Canada grows products for the continental United States and Canada.

On O‘ahu, Kupu Place is growing nutrient dense microgreens and edible flowers in Kahalu‘u. Harvested soon after germination microgreens depending on seed variety can be 40 times higher in nutrients than its mature counterpart. Started by two cousins, one with a PhD in molecular biosciences and bioengineering and the other with a BS in tropical plant and soil sciences, Kupu Place founders Anthony Mau and Steven Yee are millennial aquaponic farmers focused on microgreens.

“Our market is our audience, our community, they’re watching and shopping with their eyes and ideas, they want food production that’s in balance with the environment,” says Mau. Kupu Place started as an experiment in their grandmother’s Nu‘uanu backyard to grow crops without using municipal water or expensive fertilizers. Using aquaponics and their science backgrounds to fine-tune a formula for growing exemplary greens, the pair began attracting a following through word-of-mouth and online sales and soon found steady business from O‘ahu chefs. Committed to being close to their customers, but needing to expand, the cousins selected Kahalu‘u in Windward O‘ahu for their first farm.

I use their microgreens and flowers as a drink garnish — floating the tiny leaves and flowers on a cocktail makes for a gorgeous first sip. Kaiware, green onion and shiso micro greens add spiciness and a delicate crunch as a topper for sashimi or on a crudo.

Back to making a great salad. Here are a few tried and true tips to level up your bowl game: Start by keeping your greens dry, as water can degrade their quality, flavor and crispiness. After washing, take the time to thoroughly dry them using a spinner or by lightly shaking and patting them dry with a towel before storing. It’s also important to chill the greens soon after washing to prevent wilting.

A variety of textures and flavors — soft and crisp, spicy and sweet — will make your salad stand out. Toss that old, bottled salad dressing and opt for a simple, fresh dressing made with good quality olive oil, a nice vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. This approach ensures the greens remain the star of the dish, leading to a winning salad every time.