No list of the best Cabernet Sauvignons of Washington State would be worth the paper it is written on without including Quilceda Creek. Paul Golitzin, current President and Director of Winemaking, likes to say that “Quilceda Creek is Cabernet at its best.” And I cannot disagree. The passionate and driven second-generation winemaker has plenty of reasons why Quilceda Creek is so special and shared with me many of the insights that make it one of the best.

Alex and Jeannette Golitzin established Quilceda Creek in Snohomish, Washington in 1978. It was only the 12th bonded winery in Washington State after prohibition. As a child, Paul grew up immersed in wine, vine growing and winemaking. From trips with the family to the vineyards and Châteaux of France that inspired him, as well as being influenced by his family at home, Paul seemed to be destined to be a winemaker. And by family, I do not only mean his father. His great uncle was Andre Tchelistcheff, the legendary head winemaker of Beaulieu Vineyards — and perhaps one of the most influential winemakers ever in the U.S. — who also consulted for a small and upcoming winery in Washington State at the time. Paul remembers Uncle Andre’s visits vividly. He also credits Dimitri Tchelistcheff, Andre’s son, and Paul’s uncle, with imparting even more winemaking knowledge, as Paul took more and more active interest in winemaking at Quilceda Creek.

Paul became winemaker at Quilceda Creek officially in 1992 and has continued to experiment and refine both vineyard and winemaking practices to craft only the finest cabernet. In the winery, he has focused on everything from fermentation tanks to details as minute as the yeast selections for microvinification. He has worked with coopers for customized barrels, not only for each vineyard plot but also for each clonal selection, selecting not only the size of barrel but also the forest from which it comes.

Another asset that is a source to Quilceda Creek’s greatness is their vineyards. They own about 200 acres of some of the best in Washington. The Galitzine vineyard is 17 acres in the prime area of Red Mountain, with some of the oldest vines in Washington. The balance is the famed Champoux and Mach 1 Vineyards both in Horse Heaven Hills planted to a plethora of cabernet cones in accordance with soil types. These vineyards are the key to the quality of cabernet at Quilceda Creek, and Golitzin is still trying to make them better by replanting to high density and even more refined clonal selections that perform best in each plot. He also declassifies a huge percentage of fruit where, in any given vintage, about 40% of the fruit is declassified into their “CVR” wine (sold only to wine club members), keeping only the best of the best for their cabernets. Mark Kaigas — who shares winemaking duties since 2022 and comes most recently from Colgin Cellars in Napa Valley — adds that since they do not have phylloxera in their vineyards, their “own rooted vines give a special vibrancy and extra juice in the battery.”

I was treated to a horizontal tasting of all the 2020 Quilceda Creek cabernets, and my, these wines are impressive! All are 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. First came Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley bottling. 90% comes from Champoux Vineyard and 10% from Mach 1. It starts off with fresh and perfectly ripe black and blue fruit, then a touch of warm hot rocks, followed by sexy, sweet, toasty, and smoky oak. Full bodied and juicy, it is decadent and finishes on dark chocolate and sweet vanilla. It has wonderful length and intensity. It reminds me of a sports car that just continues to accelerate with every gear. This wine is masculine and chiseled and will live for the long haul.

Next was the Quilceda Creek Palengat Cabernet Sauvignon, which comes entirely from the Mach 1 Vineyard and only from clone 685. This had immediately sweeter fruit, more high-toned, and darker berries along with a floral component. The tannins are more refined with more integrated oak, still very sexy and even more seamless. Notes of candied fruit, caramel with a sleek, and almost silky texture-so refined, and still plenty of power and length. This may have been my favorite right now.

Third was the Quilceda Creek Tchelistcheff Cabernet Sauvignon (you can probably guess why they named it so) entirely from clone 412. This was the most reticent of the bunch, earthy and savory. It also seemed to be the most untamed and wild with more brambleberry and minerals. It expresses an almost old-world style with plenty of grip. This bottling needs time to realize its massive potential.

Last was the Quilceda Creek Galitzine Cabernet Sauvignon from clone 8 from the Galitzine Vineyard and 4% clone 412 from Mach One Vineyard. It began with a touch of eucalyptus and herbs. The explosive nose has even more red fruit along with the black and blue, but also floral with a creaminess: warm and inviting fruit character — very ripe, welcoming and complex. Powerful in the palate, not only from the fruit but also intensity and structure, with milk and dark chocolate and a velvety tannin. I’m not sure why, but in my notes, I call it the Napa Valley cabernet destroyer! After this convincing lineup, there is no doubt in my mind that they deserve to be called Washington’s best. But I would go even further and call it one of America’s best.