The word terroir is not often associated with Napa Valley. Terroir is the confluence of all the possible effects of nature that affect the wine in the vineyard: soil, temperature, aspect, climate, etc. Classical wine growing regions like Burgundy and Germany with their patchwork of vineyards that have long had their single plots of land not only named on the bottle but recognized all over the world for its unique expression; its signature of flavor are heralded as the highest echelon of the expression of terroir. Almost no one would put Napa Valley in that same league. In fact, I remember a while ago hearing sommeliers decry the fact that they could find almost no terroir in wines from Napa Valley and that “they all tasted alike.” Much has changed in Napa Valley and my opinion of finding terroir here has also.

Case in point: two properties owned and operated by John Conover and his well-known partners Gavin Newsom and Gordon Getty. The first is PlumpJack Winery in Oakville. With 42 acres of estate vineyard at the foothills of the Vaca mountain range, it specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon. At PlumpJack Winery, Conover not only appreciates other iconic wineries for “the spirit of innovation and risk takers,” he exemplifies it. In 2000, after the industry was fraught with incidences of cork taint aka TCA (trichloranisole) or the chemical that makes wine smell like wet cardboard, they made the ground-breaking decision to be the first in Napa Valley to bottle their best wine, 1997 PlumpJack Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in screwcap. It was a pioneering effort that also showed their commitment to quality.

Conover recounts traveling to Europe visiting the world’s most highly respected vignerons and observed that “great grapes come from great land.” In that quest for great land, the group acquired Cade Estate on Howell Mountain in 2005. In keeping the land “great” as a principle, the grapes here are organically grown. As a legacy, he aims to leave Napa Valley “a better place.” This fervent commitment also led them to build a winery that is Napa Valley’s first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Gold Certified Estate Winery.

What keeps Conover loving what he does is “the passionate, dedicated and fanatical” efforts of the people he works with. Those qualities are evident in the wine and the way that they each express their different terroirs. The 2018 PlumpJack Winery Estate Cabernet Sauvignon comes purely from Oakville fruit. The nose explodes with black and red fruit and wonderfully polished aroma of vanilla, a hint of toast and even a red floral component that only adds to its complexity. It is plush with a sleek and velvety mouth feel. There is wave after wave of berries, sweet wood, spices and even a touch of dark wet earth. Robust and full-bodied, this wine is truly impressive. The combination of black fruit and the velvety tannic structure are hallmarks of Oakville. The 2017 CADE Estate Cabernet Sauvignon grown at elevation at Howell Mountain is a different beast. The fruit here is darker, almost all black and blue.

Acai and goji berries come to mind along with wet espresso grounds and sweet woods. In the mouth, it has a more impactful and denser structure. There is fine-grained tannin along with fresh and confected fruit. The flavor on the finish is a mile long. Both wines are accessible now but will only get better with a few years in the cellar. I would give the CADE a longer, restful sleep to ultimately see its apogee. They are both clear expressions of their terroirs.

I know Conover and his team are rightfully proud of their wines but when I asked him what he was most proud of, he said it was the fact that their venture or what he refers to as “an American success story” is responsible for shaping and building the life of 80 families that work on the different properties (which now includes Odette Estate). Not only is he concerned for the land and the vines but the people that tie it all together. And it is special people like that who ultimately make up the crucial link between terroir and wine.

plumpjackwinery.com, cadewinery.com